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My Maytag dryer has quit working. I checked the usual suspects (outlet, breakers, etc) and no go! The timer is ticking, but the interior light is not on and it will not turn on. I have recently replaced the heater coil and thermostat and it was working great, until now. Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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I've read it could be the thermal fuse, but I haven't checked that yet.
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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram. Parts for Maytag PYET344AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comNote that RED 4 at the MOTOR CENTrifugal SWITCH goes to L2. The wiring diagram is missing this. How did you check the power? The reason I ask is that the light and the timer are on the same side of the line (Neutral to L1) but it sounds like the timer is getting power. Neither should work if the thermal fuse is blown. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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It's a new house so I had the electrician that wired the house check the outlet. He said it was good to go. Do you have any idea what it could be?
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Not really because your symptoms do not make sense re: timer works but interior light does not.
You will need a multimeter to trouble shoot this.
Also experience with electrical would be good as the first thing to do is check the interior light. Just in case it is burned out and giving misleading symptoms.
Next would be to re-check power at the receptacle and then at the terminal strip in the unit.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Rank: Member
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Thanks. I'll give it a try.
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Rank: Member
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It turned out to be the thermal fuse. Replaced it and it's working again. Thanks.
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