Lehughes, As for the temperature issue, reset both controls to the recomended settings and allow refrigerator to run 24 hours, before making any adjustments. then wait 24 hours between each re set. As long as you're sure you didn't disturb the "auto damper" assembly or the temperature control temp bulb, you should be fine after one or two adjustments.
To check the ice maker, you'll need a 3 or 4 inch length of 14 gauge, insulated wire. Remove the ice bin, remove the white plastic over from the front of the ice maker, and tape the freezer door light switched "closed". There are several labelled "holes" in the control module panel. You'll find the "H" and "T" openings at the 4 and 5 o'clock positions on the face of the module. "strip" approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation from both ends of the wire. insert the ends into the "T" and "H" openings, and hold them there until the large main gear starts to rotate, then remove the wire. The ice maker should advance through a complete cycle. When the rake arm advances and sets on the cubes, the heater should activate and loosen the cubes, rotate to the 1 o'clock position and start to fill the mold (4 to 4.5 oz. of water in 7 to 8 seconds), and the rake arm should halt at the 2 o'clock position. Make sure you hold the wire by the insulation (120 VAC) and you should be able to feel the heat from under the ice maker if the heater is working, but don't touch the bottom of the ice maker (HOT). Let us know what you observe and find, and we'll get you going.

Lehughes, That's a bit different. How often does this ocurr ? A few things to check, make sure both doors close and seal properly, the ice dispenser flapper door closes and seals, and the freezer temperature should average 0 to 5 dgrs.F.(air temp.)
If all's OK, you'll want to check the defrost system. The defrost heater should register 22 ohms resistance, draw 600 watts, or 5 to 6 amps when activated. The heater should remain on for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the defrost thermostat opens (approx. 45 dgrs.F.) The complete defrost cycle should take approximately 20 to 25 minutes. The cycle times may vary slightly because of the adaptive defrost control, but the resistance and other readings should be proper.

LEH, You should have the revised ADC Board,

Part number: AP4070403

Thank you for all your help so far. Upon further testing and observation I have found the cause of the problem is overflow of water from the ice maker into the bin. It doesn't happen every cycle, but at least once in a 24 hour cycle the ice maker will allow water to overflow into the ice bin and this is what is causing the cubes already in the bin to freeze together. I am not sure if it is from over flow during the fill process or running a cycle prior to the ice freezing and then overflowing. Do you have any ideas on how to isolate this problem?

I had this ice-partially-melting-in-the-ice-container in my Kenmore/Frigidaire side-by-side, in-the-door ice dispenser.

In my case, I discovered the dispenser ice-chute flap-door wasn't closing all the way, letting warm air into the dispenser.

I used a flashlight and looked up at the outside of the flap-door, and sure enough it was gaping open by about 3/8 of an inch or so, letting in a continuous stream of warm room air to waft up through the dispenser and into the ice container, thereby causing the ice to melt and then refreeze into the dispenser works and interior chute below the container. Pushing against it would close it, but it would spring right back open, so something was wrong with the whole flap-door mechanism.

Fiddling round a bit, I found that the clear plastic ice chute had become dislodged, so the chute wan't being held in place like it should by having its top wedged behind the back of the top of the bezel that surrounds the whole exterior dispenser unit. Turns out the wedged chute is what holds the entire flap-door mechanism in place and that was why the flap-door wasn't shutting all the way. As soon as I snapped the clear plastic ice chute back into place, the flap-door worked perfectly!