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fairbank56  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 7:32:04 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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The 200 pounds of brake spring tension is always there, moving or not.

Eric
Liz459  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 9:48:11 AM(UTC)
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I got railroaded for a bit. So I removed the belt again (had to disconnect the water pump again to get any latitude to do this- ugh)and rotated the pulley CCW. I'm not sure what I should be feeling, as far as feeling the brake release - but that I am not feeling anything 'happen' may be indicative?

As for the reference arrow on the cam...on the pulley, I see: 2 ridges on the outside which I assume are the reference points? If the reference point on the cam is expected to line up or fall in between the 2 ridges (reference points?) of the pulley...I'm in trouble. The reference point on the cam is about 1/4 inch to the left of the 2 reference points of the pulley. No matter which way I turn the pulley - the reference point on the cam does not get between the reference points on the pulley. Isn't this necessary for the drum to spin? ( I've done all of this with the belt off - or should the belt be on?

I haven't taken the clamp off to allow me to take the cam off - nor do I want too, but I am sure you are going to tell me that I have too, right?

Oh if only the cam and the pulley would cooperate? So...given all of this - where am I now?
fairbank56  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:28:10 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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You shouldn't have to take the pump loose to get the belt off. You remove it by "de-railing it", rotating while pulling at the same time. Re-install the same way but place it over the motor pulley first. You don't need the belt on to check the brake. When you continuously rotate the pulley CCW does the basket rotate with it?

Eric
Liz459  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 1:46:32 PM(UTC)
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That belt is extremely tight - no way was it coming off without letting something go.

Anyway - when I rotate the pulley CCW, with the belt on or off, the basket does not turn. The agitator turns, alternating directions even though only turning the pulley CCW. Why doesn't the basket turn? The washer did spin and drain originally?
fairbank56  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:08:13 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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The belt shouldn't be that tight. When I said to check that the motor pivots ok, I wasn't talking about the motor pulley, I'm talking about the whole motor. It has a spring that keeps tension on it but it should pivot. This action regulates the belt tension. Doesn't matter anyway, if it agitates when you turn the pulley in either direction, the transmission is bad.

Eric
Liz459  
#16 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:36:27 PM(UTC)
Liz459

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It agitates in an aternating direction when the pulley is rotated CCW. It agitates right and left,on its own - all the while turning the pulley CCW. All that to find that out... that is not good news at all. Yes, it was the motor on the plate, right? Yep, had a spring too. It pivoted - but as you said - makes no never mind...a transmission is not worth it - as far as I know. Thanks so much for all!
Liz
fairbank56  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, March 26, 2013 3:23:19 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Yes, a transmission will run $226 and you still would have to install a new thrust bearing kit and who knows what else you will find when you take the machine apart to get the transmission out. This has been a common issue with these transmissions.

Eric
thefisch  
#18 Posted : Thursday, November 2, 2017 6:39:55 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Go to Quoted Post
The washer either spins on low speed or high speed depending on the wash cycle you have selected. For a regular or normal wash, it will spin on high speed. There is a brake, clutch and belt tension spring on the motor so these three things will cause the actual basket spin speed to vary as the water is spun out of the clothes eventually getting up to around 620rpm if everything is working properly. Reach up under the basket between the basket and outer tub and feel for any clothing that may be caught in there. If that's clear, I would first tilt the machine back, remove the belt and rotate the pump pulley to make sure it spins freely. Then check that the motor pivots freely. Then check the brake adjustment. Pull the cap off of the bottom of the main drive pulley. Rotate the pulley CCW until you feel the pressure of the brake releasing. The reference arrow on the cam should fall between the reference ridges on the pulley. See bottom of page 2 of this service bulletin. Report back with your findings.

Water in the pump hoses is normal. Clothing between the tubs can do anything from slowing the spin speed to stopping it altogether, depends on whats in there.

Eric


Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Go to Quoted Post
Well, actually, your just probing with your fingers between the basket and the outer tub cover. This is where clothing typically gets caught on this washer. It is possible for clothing to get past this point and get further down between the basket and tub at which point you would have to at least open the top panel and remove the outer tub cover to be able to better see down between the tubs. If it's down too far or between them at the bottom, you would have to remove the basket. Not that difficult on this machine. Just remove the agitator and the four bolts holding the basket down. Pump problems have been a common problem with slow spin speed symptoms. If the water doesn't get pumped out fast enough before spin speed builds up, water gets trapped between the tubs and can't get to the pump. Excessive sudsing due to using too much detergent can also cause slow spin, but as I said, other things can cause slow spin. Motor pivot problems causing the belt to slip, improper brake release, bad tub bearing, bad clutch spring in the transmission...etc.

Eric

Eric


Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Go to Quoted Post
Did you check the reference marks on the bottom of the pulley as I suggested? The brake is just above the drive pulley (center pulley). This pulley drives the transmission input shaft via a two part cam setup. The lower cam is on the very bottom of the input shaft below the pulley. The upper cam is an integral part of the drive pulley hub. When the pulley goes in the CCW (viewed from below) direction the two cams begin to rotate together but the lower cam which is splined to the input shaft will only rotate until the "anti-backup" pinion gear in the transmission stops it. Now the upper cam "rides" up the lower cam so the pulley moves upwards. There is a thrust bearing on the upper side of the pulley that pushes up on the brake rotor which is splined to the lower stem of the transmission housing. With the brake released, now the lower cam can drive the input shaft again which will now turn the whole transmission housing. The upper stem of the transmission housing is attached to the basket. When spin stops the spring in the brake pushes the brake rotor back down, the lining on the spinning rotor contacts the brake stator and stops it. The rotor being splined to the lower transmission stem, stops it and the basket. Hope I didn't lose you there. Anyway, rotate the pulley CCW and the brake should release and the basket should rotate, in theory. This doesn't always work so well when doing it by hand as the brake spring is exerting 200 pounds of force on the brake rotor. In actual operation, the motor provides much more force to get the spin going. So, at this point, everything else seems to check out ok, so that leaves the brake thrust bearing, cams or the tub bearing as possible problem areas. The thrust bearing and cams are relatively easy to replace and is a common failure point so I would suggest replacing it. It comes as a kit with new pulley, lower cam and bearing parts.

Eric


Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Go to Quoted Post
The belt shouldn't be that tight. When I said to check that the motor pivots ok, I wasn't talking about the motor pulley, I'm talking about the whole motor. It has a spring that keeps tension on it but it should pivot. This action regulates the belt tension. Doesn't matter anyway, if it agitates when you turn the pulley in either direction, the transmission is bad.

Eric


Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Go to Quoted Post
Yes, a transmission will run $226 and you still would have to install a new thrust bearing kit and who knows what else you will find when you take the machine apart to get the transmission out. This has been a common issue with these transmissions.

Eric

Eric, thanks for posting all this useful info about how the cams in the pulley work. I am trying to troubleshoot between the thrust bearing/pulley and transmission and could use some help. I posted my issue here in this new thread http://forum.appliancepartspros...gitating-spin-cycle.html. In short, the washer stops spinning and starts agitating in the spin cycle which based on your post would indicate the transmission is bad. In addition, with the belt removed, when I turn the pulley in either direction CW or CCW, the agitator moves back and forth while the basket stays does not spin (it stays still) which would indicate the thrust bearing kit. Any advice or further troubleshooting ideas would be helpful.
Walshy9  
#19 Posted : Monday, November 6, 2017 9:30:57 AM(UTC)
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I have the same issue with my maytag centennial top loader. The water last spin cycle isn't getting the water out and the washer will run for hours but the clothes are still soaking wet when it does shut off. What should I be doing to correct this?
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