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You can get manual defrost proceedure at web site www.applianceaid.com, there ate two proceedures there, one for newer fridgs and another for the older ones, one should work. If it fails to work, you have a bad control module.
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See the attachment for the tech sheet. I am not sure how you checked the defrost thermostat. At room temperature it should be 56,000 ohms. When frozen it should be 0 ohms. To check it when frozen hold it's face to an ice cube or let it freeze in the freezer. Do not immerse it in cold water as this may let water into the thermostat. Also if it is bulged/deformed, replace it even if it measures OK. If the heater and the defrost thermostat measure OK then odds are that the control board is toast. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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I tested it by placing it in the deep freezer outside. I got 0 ohms when in there and the 56K ohms shortly after taking it out.
Everything seeks to check out fine. I am just going to run it again and assume that perhaps the damper was frozen shut and that was the problem. I do have a console humidifier in my kitchen for the winters, so I can see increased frost in my freezer happening due to that.
I'll get an alarm and monitor the fridge carefully going forward.
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I've done a lot of research only to not find the right answers. I was always taught to try the simple things first.
We'll awhile back I thought my beer wasn't getting as cold as I like so, I turned the thermostat to max cool. We'll still not cold enough so, I looked and saw that there is two temp controls. One for the fridge and one for the freezer. Well let's try turning the freezer to max cool. Things started getting worst, warmer. 40 degrees. After a couple of months of thinking my fridge was on it's last legs I decided to web trouble shoot.
One recommended cure form the experts was to clean the condenser coils followed by checking the fan motor. Well let's just hold on here a minute. I doesn't a cold cold freezer tell you that the coils and fan are all right? Next test the defrost timer. Whoa hold on there. If there was trouble with the defrost the freezer wouldn't be cold right??
Next test rip the freezer a part to check the fan and if the coils are frozen up.
OK OK here's what the problem was. Looking at the control for the freezer temp I found out that all it does when you put the freezer colder is it is nothing more than cover over the hole were the cold air comes in. Do you see what I mean? All I did was turn the freezer control the other way to warmer opening the little door to let the cold air in to the fridge and a day later the thermometer went from 40 degrees to 20 degrees and the freezer's doing just fine. Hey, the simple things. I hope this helps someone else. H
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This board has been a great resource as we’re troubleshooting why our frig side is warm and the freezer plenty cold. We have this 12yo Frigidaire, Model#FRS23BH6CB0 There is no frost accumulation in the evaporator coils. We emptied it all out yesterday and turned it off. After it all reached room temp we turned it back on and the compressor and evaporator fan started running and we could feel cold air moving into the frig and the freezer was working fine. By this morning, the evaporator fan was no longer running and the frig temp had settled in at around 50 and the freezer was still working fine. I moved the frig temp settings slightly colder and nothing happened until… I tapped the front of the temperature control dials and the frig began to cool again (evaporator fan turned on) and the frig side got down to 37 and the evaporator fan shut off-the compressor and fan turned off. We opened the frig door to get it warm again and see if we could make that Fonzie move work again, and this time tapping and turning the dial made a click sound and the evaporator began to run again. Opening the freezer door also still turns on the compressor- it’s down to 7 degrees in there. Could this be just the frig temperature control unit? The tapping makes us think so. Frigidaire 240383703 Control-Temperature - AppliancePartsPros.com Is this a very complex DIY install?
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Hello,
You are on the right track and the part number you posted is correct.
This job is not too difficult if you know how to handle a simple tools. The control panel secured with a few screws. Do not forget to unplug the refrigerator first.
Gene.
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I am having this very issue of freezer side is fine and the refrigerator side is cold near the bottom of the compartment but warm near the top. We bought this unit in 2006 and this problem happened in 2010 but it was covered under our extended warranty. Lowe's had a technician come out an he replaced the control board and the problem was fixed. Until now. I sometimes find water in the bottom of the refrigerator side under the bottom drawer and the tell tale signs of rust stains on the back panel. I know I need to pull the back cover off and clear out that drain from what I have seen/read but other than that I don't know what else to check or try. So my question is do I need to just go ahead and buy a new board? Or start smaller with a DMM and start checking other components, and if so where do I start? I know there is a self diag. test you can run but I don't know how to start it. Thanks for any help.
I found how to do the self diagnostics and I am getting a Refrigerator Defrost Error. What exactly does this mean?
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I cleaned out the drain and checked the ohms on the heater and got 4385 ohms. When I put the panel back in temporarily just so I can plug in all the connectors, the blower doesn't seem to be blowing any air, and yes I held in the door switch while trying. Is there a place to find the ohms for other components or any other way of testing them? The fan is working on the freezer side.
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It can be a one minute or longer delay for the fan motor to start after the door was open.
Which heater did you check? Such resistance is to high.
Gene.
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