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Unplug the range. Remove the control panel rear cover. You have three identical switches and one switch for the dual element. Start with the identical switches. All switches must be off. Remove the wire from the "P" terminal and check for continuity between the terminals "P" & "L1". Any of the switches with continuity reading is bad. The dual element switch has to be tested for continuity between the terminals "S1" & "S2". Post the results. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Whirlpool WFE361LVB0 Range - AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 6
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for the instructions on how to testing for continuity of the switches. So far I have tested the identical switches and found the right front one has readings while both rear ones have no readings. For testing the dual element switch, should I also remove the wire from the "P" terminal first, then test the continuity between the terminals "S1" & "S2"? or do not need to remove the wire from the "P" terminal?
Thanks, Wei
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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This switch does not have "P" terminal. Remove the wire form the "S1" or "S2" terminal.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 6
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 6
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The issue went away after shut off and on the braker in the electric panel a few times. Although I suspect one of the identical switch was failed after having tested all the 4 identical switches and found the right front one has readings. But for now I would keep this way till the "Cooktop On" stay on again, then will change it. Thanks Gene for the great help!
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