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Hello, Your refrigerator has some differences in the controls design compare to most other refrigerators. It's explained more detailed in the attached file. When you replaced the thermostat which controls temperature in the FREEZER it is very important to place the capillary tube in it's holder on the damper control. I also attached the instructions on the damper control testing and replacement. Hopefully it will help you to fix it. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Maytag MTB2156DEW Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Hi, Thanks for the great thread, just too long to read it all though.
I most certainly have a defrost issue, trying to determine what is the cause.
1. This unit has no defrost timer, so am told it is controlled by Def control module WR55x10900. Can you tell me how to test this module (with multi meter) and what readings should be?
2. For the Def heater - WR51X10038, I would check that as well. Could you give the same advice on testing this?
3. Def T-stat -- i changed this before, but now not sure i got the right one. i used WR50X10071. But there are two similar looking items (620 on diagram) - are they supposed to be the same unit? which one is the ..71 vs ..73. Any way to test?
Thanks for any help you can give.
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Originally Posted by: sabre66  ...I most certainly have a defrost issue, trying to determine what is the cause... Hi, Why do you think so? What is the condition of the evaporator coils? There is something missing in the model number you posted. Verify and repost it please. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi,
Why do you think so? What is the condition of the evaporator coils?
There is something missing in the model number you posted. Verify and repost it please.
Gene. Hi Gene, try model number GTH18EBT2RWW. Every two weeks or so the fridge gets warm and then the compressor starts to run longer. I have been taking off the back and manually defrosting, as the coils always have a lot of frost on them after the two weeks. The coils have a lot of frost on them, but look fine when cleared off. The fridge may have gotten some extra voltage during hurricane Sandy, and I have replaced both fan motors so far. It is getting a bit tiresome manually defrosting each week, so this is my last chance to fix or get a new one. Thanks
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Thank you, this model number works. You are on the right track with diagnostic. There are four parts in the defrost system in your refrigerator. They are: the Adaptive Defrost control board, the defrost heater and two defrost thermostats connected in series. Start the troubleshooting from checking the defrost heater and the defrost thermostats for continuity. You can do it from the ADC control board by checking for continuity between the wires connected to the terminals DF & L2. It should read between 20 Ohms to 40 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, check for continuity the defrost heater and each of the defrost thermostat separate. Both defrost thermostats must be ice cold at this time. If the reading is correct try to force the defrost manually as described in the attached file. - The ADC control board Part number: WR55X10900
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Gene. This is fantastic. I am going to work in it the next few hours.
Thanks
Tim
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OK. Open the top to the. ADC board and did the test and got 36 ohms. So that sounds good. But when in there saw black on the top and side. Looking closer seems to be from capacitor?? MOV1, the blue cap there. See cracks on the side and some black residue. Think that would be the issue and need to replace the board?
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You absolutely right. The new board should fix the problem.
Gene.
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Thanks for the great thread. It has helped me identify my problem.
I have a Whirlpool GX5FHDXVB03. I noticed the refrigerator getting warm, into the 60s, but the freezer was still fine as no ice was melting in the tray. I took the door off and pulled the back panel. Sure enough the front visible coils, which I assume are the condenser coils, as pretty well frozen.
I am currently defrosting that with a space heater, but I am curious what to do next. I don't see from the unit parts diagram that my model has a separate defrost timer. Perhaps that means it is on a board or something.
Is there any way for me to manually activate the defrost cycle so I can see if my heater is bad or if it is a more serious repair?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Ok, one more update. I did a manual defrost cycle through the controls and the heater didn't appear to come on. However, I had already defrosted it, so that isn't surprising as the bi-metal was likely too warm.
So I did a continuity test on the heater core and it checked out fine. I then removed the bi-metal wires and got continuity with it while in the freezer, and as expected, it failed when I held it in my hand outside the freezer to warm it up. Is it possible that my board is bad? Or is is possible that mine just got really badly frozen up (maybe from leaving the door open accidentally) and it will be fine now that I defrosted it?
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