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Joined: 11/19/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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I have a Bosch SHE46C DW. It runs for a long time, ultimately getting stuck on "1". Similiar to some of the previous posts. Is the SHE same/similiar to SHU?
None of the prior posts seem to be for this model so I wanted to verify a few things before I buy the new controller.
Is the relay on the controller?...so if I buy the new controller the relay is also replaced?
Prior to purchasing the controller, should I rule out any of the other elements such as the heating element? Or, based upon your experince, is the controller most likely the culprit?
Is there another component in the DW that caused this? Or just a bad make of a board?
I will probably take the DW door apart tomorrow to investigate the circut panel.
Many thanks.
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Joined: 11/21/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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Hi Ted, I have a Bosch DW and it was running too long. It was not drying up correctly and failed at melting the cap of a "dishwasher magic" bottle. The PCB had a black spot and was definitely lacking solder. Added solder and the thing is better than new. I guess the solder was never really good. YMMV, but I'd check the PCB for an obvious brown/dark spot and a bad solder. Cheers!
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Joined: 11/19/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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satabdudes I took the door off and looked at the circut panel. The bad spot was very visable.(see photo attached) 5 minute solder job and the DW is running as good as new. Thanks for the advice. For any other viewers, simple project. Probably saved $100!!!! Hardest part was getting the plastic cover off the circut board. There are about 6 little (hidden) tabs to depress on the front in addition to the two (obvious) tabs on the sides. Be Well Ted O. Ted O attached the following image(s):
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Joined: 11/21/2011(UTC) Posts: 4
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Glad it helped Ted. Mine was not as black as yours. Depending on how good your solder is and how "resistive" the black part is, you may have the same problem again in a few months/years. What I would do is use an 18ga single strand wire (or just some small wire) and loop it on top of the 3 pins that are on the "black island" on your picture. That will solve the problem forever. At this point, just keep using it and if it goes again, just put this wire on, Did you clean the dark spot (soot) before soldering? Cheers!
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Joined: 11/19/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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satabdudes...well here I am 1 year later and I am having the same issue. The DW stopped working a few weeks ago. I opened up the panel to find the solder gone again. I tried to re-solder. works intermitantly...not dependable. I am going to try soldering on the wire to the three posts as you suggested to see how that works. I hope you were serious with that recommendation. I'll report back with results. Ted O.
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Joined: 1/25/2013(UTC) Posts: 4
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I had the exact same problem: The Bosch dishwasher was running for 3+ hours, the time display would show very odd times (For instance, it would start at 180 minutes, then go down to 1 minute , then back up to 30 minutes, then back to 1 minute. The dishwasher did not sound right: Water was moving around inside but the arms were not spraying.
I took the front panel off and removed the control module and opened it up and just as described above the solder joint was gone. So I resoldered and added extra copper wire, as suggested above. Put it back together and it is working just like new. Thanks for the help.
If anyone else wants to do this, the clue for getting to the circuit card is the following: You need to completely remove the front panel control board from the dishwasher. After unscrewing the small metal screws from inside the dishwasher, the front panel will be freed. disconnect all the wire connectors (They are keyed for each individual slot, so you cannot reassemble incorrectly). The ground wire has a little tab you must compress to make it release.
You then need to pop the plastic front panel (with buttons) off the metal frame, and then pop the control unit (encased in plastic) out of the metal frame. Both of these are pretty easy if you push back the locking tabs. and twist the panel or control unit in the correct direction. The control panel sort of pivots or swivels out of the frame; it does NOT come straight out.
Finally , to open the control unit there are six plastic locking tabs. The two on the outside are obvious, but there are four tiny ones on the backside sort of behind the connector row. They are `sunken in', meaning they are sort of interior to the plastic clamshell , accessible through four square holes on the backside of the clamshell. Each hole is a little bit larger than a blade of a standard flat head screwdriver. Using a miniature flat head screwdriver, you should be able to carefully compress one side of each latch and detach it from the other. Once all six latches are opened/freed, the clamshell pivots open.
This worked great: Thanks! :cool:
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Joined: 1/29/2013(UTC) Posts: 2
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This is EXACTLY what my Bosch is doing and I found a recall here: Bosch Home AppliancesRepairman coming to REPLACE the control module! At Bosch's expense!
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Joined: 1/25/2013(UTC) Posts: 4
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Great news...I checked mine. It was the correct model but the wrong serial number for the recall. So there was no free Bosch serve for me. It was a good thing that i was able to fix it using the above suggestions:rolleyes:
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Joined: 12/7/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: kieda Great news...I checked mine. It was the correct model but the wrong serial number for the recall. So there was no free Bosch serve for me. It was a good thing that i was able to fix it using the above suggestions:rolleyes: If your dishwasher is NOT on the recall list, search with "bosch relay recall" on Youtube for the fix.
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Joined: 3/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 1
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I did just like the guys above suggested and it worked. However, I opened the dishwasher mid-cycle and was concerned that the water temp just wasn't HOT. It felt pretty luke-warm and that doesn't seem right. Any thoughts?
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