What you are experiencing is the bane of microprocessor controlled front load washers.

The Control Unit is not getting a signal that the motor is turning, so it shuts down. The diagnostics are awful, all they do is confirm the lack of communications, and the problem can be in the wiring, motor, control board, inverter, and even the door lock assembly.

I would check all of the wiring, and clean and reseat all of the connections. If that does not solve the problem replacing the control unit is a logical step, but not a guaranteed fix.

This is why the service tech has a truck full of parts, and just keeps replacing things until something fixes it.

Hi again David

Here is a GE service manual for your model.

http://appliancejunk.com/ge/washer/31-9135.pdf

The problem is not you, it is GE. Some high priced engineers went out and made one of the most thoroughly complex pieces of machinery they could think of. I mean, who would put an inverter in a washer! What do electronics hate, well they hate moisture, heat and vibration. And what does a washing machine have?

Anyway, maybe some of the tests in this manual will help you. If you end up replacing, I would strongly urge you to pick up a no frills, top load with not electronics (for reasons you are already familiar with). It will cost less, do a great job on your clothes, be less likely to fail, and if it does need work the parts are less expensive and easy to replace.

Now, my problem is my son will not change out the timing belt on his Accord with about 120k miles on it.

Good luck, I hope you can diagnose this thing and fix it.

I have been thorugh the diagnostic tests, found the error code, reset it & had it come up a second time. My unit fails the t08, t09, t10, t11, t13 tests per the same service manual by only making a beep-beep sound when pressing the start/pause button. I have no voltage at the junction box for the inverter, so I assume the control board is defective as the other components seem to work. I would like to confirm this before I tear it all apart & spend the money on a new board. Any thoughts on this?

I have noticed from these posts that the control board is often the problem after people have tried everything else. Is it because of some form of improper operation, voltage surge, overheating or what is going on? I am going to change mine per your recommendation & would like to avoid future problems. I am sure there are many machines that will run for 20+ years & never have a problem, so what is the difference from the ones that fail?

Also, is this control board static sensitive so that I need to be grounded to handle it during installation? Thanks for any insight.

A couple of other things came up. During the t07 thermister test, the temp only increased from 74 to 76 during the 5 min test. Is that normal? I could not feel any heat around the area where it is mounted, so I wondered about that, but that is not my main problem. Another thing, the manual lists a t14 test, my unit only goes up to t13 then returns to t01. It says t13 is for factory testing, maybe that has been eliminated on my unit & t13 is the spin speed test on my machine? I noticed the manual is dated 2005 & mine is a 2007 per the H in the model year of the model #. Also, I do not have an eng. rev. digit in the model # that is referenced in the manual. I did not see any place in the manual on testing that said to turn the selector knob to advance to the next test. I stumbled on to that after playing around, but that would be a nice note to add to the directions!

That link is very old, and these days it is almost impossible to link to service manuals. You should be able to download one for a nominal cost is you do an internet search.

The boards in these machines fail because they hate moisture, heat and vibrations and washing machines have moisture, heat and vibrations. Adding electronics to washing machines is a marketing ploy and an engineering nightmare.