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ryder  
#11 Posted : Friday, December 21, 2012 6:08:31 AM(UTC)
ryder

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So why don't they all fail? They all are subjected to the same conditions, more or less. Having a background in electronics design & manufacturing, I can assure you that a curcuit board can be & probably is made for this environment, & most do not fail. Just wondering if using a surge protector or avoiding some particular function or something makes a difference.

Also, I found a link in Google to the manual for free.
sidfink43  
#12 Posted : Friday, December 21, 2012 6:20:22 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

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You are correct, they are designed and made for the conditions they are used for, and most do not fail.

But given your background you are fully aware of the statistical issues in quality control, and the probabilities of minor flaws in circuit boards, flaws which are not discovered during QA processes but which cause failure over time.

The main point though, these boards do not really add to the functionality of a washing machine, they just add to the costs and problems.

Power surges are not a problem, and no manufacturer recommends surge protection. There is really nothing one can do, if you buy a machine with electronics you just have to take the chance that they will fail, be very difficult to diagnose and be very expensive to repair. This is the reason folks like us recommend a basic, non electronic control top loading washer. It is what I have, and if someone gave me a front loading GE I would set it on the curb.

And if that happens and you drive by my house you are welcome to it.

Glad you got the manual, that will be very helpful.
ryder  
#13 Posted : Saturday, December 22, 2012 8:13:04 AM(UTC)
ryder

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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
You are correct, they are designed and made for the conditions they are used for, and most do not fail.

But given your background you are fully aware of the statistical issues in quality control, and the probabilities of minor flaws in circuit boards, flaws which are not discovered during QA processes but which cause failure over time.

The main point though, these boards do not really add to the functionality of a washing machine, they just add to the costs and problems.

Power surges are not a problem, and no manufacturer recommends surge protection. There is really nothing one can do, if you buy a machine with electronics you just have to take the chance that they will fail, be very difficult to diagnose and be very expensive to repair. This is the reason folks like us recommend a basic, non electronic control top loading washer. It is what I have, and if someone gave me a front loading GE I would set it on the curb.

And if that happens and you drive by my house you are welcome to it.

Glad you got the manual, that will be very helpful.


Actually, this machine is far superior in operation, energy efficiency, water usage, etc. to the old technology. It is the same logic as with computers. I doubt you are still using a trash 80 computer even though it was a much more simple machine.

The point is, electronics can be very stable & reliable when properly designed & manufactured, & everything today is infinitely more complex than in the past, but also more reliable. Most sources I have been in contact with would also disagree that power surges are not a problem. They can also destroy old technology. I will be using one going forward if I can get this thing fixed, & would not expect to have any other problems until it is replaced.
ryder  
#14 Posted : Saturday, December 22, 2012 8:27:13 AM(UTC)
ryder

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A couple of other things came up. During the t07 thermister test, the temp only increased from 74 to 76 during the 5 min test. Is that normal? I could not feel any heat around the area where it is mounted, so I wondered about that, but that is not my main problem. Another thing, the manual lists a t14 test, my unit only goes up to t13 then returns to t01. It says t13 is for factory testing, maybe that has been eliminated on my unit & t13 is the spin speed test on my machine? I noticed the manual is dated 2005 & mine is a 2007 per the H in the model year of the model #. Also, I do not have an eng. rev. digit in the model # that is referenced in the manual. I did not see any place in the manual on testing that said to turn the selector knob to advance to the next test. I stumbled on to that after playing around, but that would be a nice note to add to the directions! Any ideas?

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...r-e54.html#ixzz2FnpGXD3u
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
sidfink43  
#15 Posted : Saturday, December 22, 2012 3:56:52 PM(UTC)
sidfink43

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I don't think your comparison to computer technology and washing machine technology is totally appropriate.

The technology for washing clothes has not changed. The clothes are agitated in water mixed with detergent, spun out, agitated in rinse water and spun out again. All washing machines use this technology. The electronics in a machine do not change the technology of how clothes are cleaned, they just changed how the machine is controlled.

These newer machine are more efficient and use less water, but there is a cost, in fact a rather large costs. A medium quality front loader can cost twice as much as a basic top loader, have about half the life and in many cases need a major repair that costs several hundred dollars or more. In fact many are too expensive to repair and are replaced rather than fixed, adding more to costs and making for lesser, not greater efficiency.

Factory trained techs cannot diagnose the problems with these machines. They repair them by replacing parts until they find a set of parts replacements that fix the problems. Check out the cost of having a factory tech fix your machine and then see if you would not decide just to junk it.

Good luck with your repair, sounds like you are doing all the right things.
ryder  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, January 2, 2013 10:22:11 AM(UTC)
ryder

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The control panel was not the problem. Inverter was, looks like it is a much more common failure as it has been redesigned. Turns out, the only way to check voltage into the inverter is to do it in regular mode as there was voltage present then, but not during test mode. It only beeped.

If the problem looks like it could be either control assy or inverter, I would always replace the inverter first if there is voltage into the connector during the regular cycle.

Is there any way to repair this board? I suspect one of the caps or rectifiers is all that is defective. If parts are available it would not be hard to do.
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