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Dryer won't start (110 volt light works) after removing lint by:
1 Disconnect power and open top
2 Removed front panel
3 Disconnect 5 wires (took photo before removing wires) from front panel
4 Vacuumed what I could reach by having front off
5 Pulled away from wall
6 Vacuumed duct going into basement
7 Vacuumed duct in dryer
8 Generally cleaned/vacuumed/washed whatever I could reach
9 Reassembled - being careful to get 5 wires reconnected to correct terminals - double checked, they are :)
10 Light works, motor will not start.
Was working perfectly before the lint removal project.
:confused: :confused:
Appreciate any suggestions
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Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire GLER341AS2 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/131850600.pdfLight is on but does is go off when the door is closed? You will just have to check your wiring. Also check for any loose/pulled off wires at the timer. If you cannot find the open then you will need a meter to track it down. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/6/2007(UTC)
Posts: 22
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire GLER341AS2 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/131850600.pdfLight is on but does is go off when the door is closed? You will just have to check your wiring. Also check for any loose/pulled off wires at the timer. If you cannot find the open then you will need a meter to track it down. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. Thx for the reply- Light switch checks OK with VOM as does door switch. The wiring diagram (have the one that came wth the dryer) does not agree with my machine. On my dryer, the "Control Thermostat" has 4 terminals per the diagram, but the 2 right hand are not shorted together (at the switch, anyway - they may be elsewhere) I assume any switch/thermo having to do with too much heat are not at issue. Mistake? Also, how can I check the motor - coil resistance, switches, etc.?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/6/2007(UTC)
Posts: 22
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Originally Posted by: Davejb Dryer won't start (110 volt light works) after removing lint by:
1 Disconnect power and open top
2 Removed front panel
3 Disconnect 5 wires (took photo before removing wires) from front panel
4 Vacuumed what I could reach by having front off
5 Pulled away from wall
6 Vacuumed duct going into basement
7 Vacuumed duct in dryer
8 Generally cleaned/vacuumed/washed whatever I could reach
9 Reassembled - being careful to get 5 wires reconnected to correct terminals - double checked, they are :)
10 Light works, motor will not start.
Was working perfectly before the lint removal project.
:confused: :confused:
Appreciate any suggestions Don't see how to post another reply - but I reassembled unit and it works. Makes no sense. But appreciate the professional support nonetheless. Thx again. Davejb
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