Hello,

Sounds like the problem is a bad machine (main) control board which is located in the dryer cabinet. You have nothing to loose if you order it from APP to give it a try because you can return the part if it would not fix the problem. You also may want to check all wires and connections.

- The main control board Part number: 22004325

I don't know any special besides those which are at the control boards, the timer and the motor.

This points to a loose connection.

Gene.

Yes, it does. Keep us posted please.

Gene.

Just did some more testing, and I think I'm getting closer to the issue. I checked the resistance of the windings in the motor, all were the same at a little over 7 ohms. So for the heck of it, I re-did the motor control board test with the external power cord, but this time with water in the drum, just to see what would happen. Motor ran at about 50 RPM for about 30 seconds then stopped. So I figured maybe the test wasn't designed to be run with a load, so I drained the water out of the drum and did the same test. Motor started spinning at 50 RPM for about 35 seconds, then stopped. So I ran the test again, this time I put the volt meter across 2 of the windings and got 120 when the motor was running, but went to 0 when the motor stopped.

I should note, when I initially plug in the external power, I hear a "click" from the relay on the motor control board and then the motor starts spinning. Even though the motor stops during the test about 30 seconds later, the relay is still engaged and doesn't click again until I unplug it. When I plug it in again immediately after it shuts off, the relay clicks again and the motor starts turning, but this time the motor only runs for a few seconds then stops, and the voltage on the meter again goes to zero. Can I infer from this that the motor control board might not be supplying constant power, or is the tach circuit somehow involved too when running this test? Is there any way to hook the motor directly to an AC source?

I should also say that it looks like the motor control board and the motor has been replaced once (a while back?) as there are wire nuts on the R, B, and Y wires to the JP4 connector (I checked the continuity of the wire nut connections, and they're fine), and both the motor control board and the motor itself look different from the illustrations in the troubleshooting manual in terms of the separate tach connector (manual has it separate, mine has it integrated). Any way to tell if this may have been replaced under warranty or when?

Sorry this is getting so long, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this and appreciate any help.

I found the push to start, momentary switch bad in mine. The switch is a double pole momentary contact style, when you press it to start it sends 120 to the main control board and the motor control board, then the main power relay pulls in bypassing the switch. With the half of the switch bad that sends 120 to the control board, the machine would make noise, fill, and give the drum a bit of rotation and then shut down. The 120 sent to the control board needs to be there when the switch is pushed, and when the machine starts, the 120 is actually coming back from that terminal the switch sent it to, and going back into the controls of the machine. That half of the switch is also the half that shuts the machine down when you press it again to stop it. If you can read the schematic that came with the washer, stored in the controls area, you can check that switch with an ohm meter for continuity when you push it, assuming you know how to use and ohm meter and not have the machine plugged in while working on it. I used a jumper wire hooked to the 120 on my switch, in this case the gray wires on the other side of the switch, and pushed the button while touching the jumper to the yellow wire in my machine that goes to the control board, and the machine ran fine. Pushing and jumpering again, and the machine shut down as it should. Finding a replacement switch may be a problem. I have an older Neptune and I had to use shim brass and a soldering iron to repair the broken leaf in mine, and you cant just jumper across to use the good half of the switch as they are all common on the line side of the AC. That 120 has to be a momentary signal, if you jumper it, the machine will not work.