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I’m trying to locate a repair (not owners) manual that I can download for my dishwasher (KitchenAid KUDI01FLSS3).
I have the typical 7 flashing light issue. The heating element checked out at 13.3 ohms. I’m at a loss as to where to go from here. Any help is appreciated!
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Hello, The heating circuit in your dishwasher consists of three parts: the heating element, the hi-limit thermostat and the control board. You did check the heating element and it checks OK. The next step is to check the hi-limit thermostat under the dishwasher (#30 at the diagram) . If the hi-limit thermostat is good too, replace the control board. - The hi-limit thermostat Part number: 661566
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Gene, I located the thermostat and the resistance checked out at .3 ohms. Is that a good reading for it?
I found another possible cause for the washer not running. The connector tip on one of the ends of the heating element was rusty. Apparently the seal where it passes through the bottom of the washer cabinet had been leaking. It’s possible that enough rust had accumulated and it caused the electrical connection to fail. I wire brushed and filed the connector tip to clean it up. I applied automotive dielectric grease on the connector tip and reinstalled the element into the cabinet.
The washer is pulled out from under the counter and the hot water supply, power cord and waste water line are hooked up. If you say the thermostat is OK at .3 ohms I’ll try to start it up. Before I do so do I need to go through the diagnostic procedure first? If so what buttons do I need to push on “My” model?
I’ll be ordering at least a few parts – door tension cord assy, heating element plastic nuts for starters.
Your help is greatly appreciated Gene! Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: gunns  ...I found another possible cause for the washer not running. The connector tip on one of the ends of the heating element was rusty... Most likely it was the culprit. The reading for the hi-limit thermostat is good. If you believe you can reseal the heating element then it's fine. If not, then it's better to replace it. If your dishwasher has a stainless steel tub, then you have to order the heating element kit which includes a new redesigned control board. For a plastic tub it is just a heating element. You have to reset the control board memory before you will run the dishwasher again. While the dishwasher is inactive, press the following buttons in sequence shown: High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry) - High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry). - The heating element kit (stainless steel tubs) Part number: 8194200
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Thanks Gene for the info. I hope to get it all back together soon and I'll try the reset. My fingers are crossed!!
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Most likely it was the culprit. The reading for the hi-limit thermostat is good. If you believe you can reseal the heating element then it's fine. If not, then it's better to replace it. If your dishwasher has a stainless steel tub, then you have to order the heating element kit which includes a new redesigned control board. For a plastic tub it is just a heating element. You have to reset the control board memory before you will run the dishwasher again. While the dishwasher is inactive, press the following buttons in sequence shown: High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry) - High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry). - The heating element kit (stainless steel tubs) Part number: 8194200
Well Gene……. I put the thermostat back in and pushed the buttons you advised and it’s still not working. You stated to push the following - High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry) - High temp (Power scour) - Air dry (No heat dry, Energy saver dry) which I did and all the lights lit up. Then I closed the washer and pushed the “Cancel” button. It went through a quick sequence and when finished I tried a “Normal “cycle with no luck. It sounded like it was working but when I opened the door the spray arms had not moved. The pump is working as it pumped the water out at the end of the cycle. The control boards are expensive so if there is something else possibly wrong that I could check first I’d like to give it a go. I think I replaced the control board several years (4 or 5) ago. Are the new boards different; if so in what way? I apologize if I’m making a nuisance of myself. Your help IS appreciated!! P.S. The buttons on my model, KUDI01FLSS3, that I pushed twice in sequence were Hi-Temp Scrub & Energy Saver Dry followed by closing the door and pressing Cancel. None of the buttons on my washer were titled like the ones you provided so I pushed the ones that closely matched yours.
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Originally Posted by: gunns ...It sounded like it was working but when I opened the door the spray arms had not moved. The pump is working as it pumped the water out at the end of the cycle... There are two pumps in your dishwasher. They are: the circulation (wash) pump and the drain pump. If the drain pump was working, it does not mean that the wash pump was working too. Remove the toe panel and make sure the wash pump motor is working while the control calls for wash. If it is, check the water level inside the dishwasher. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene There are two pumps in your dishwasher. They are: the circulation (wash) pump and the drain pump. If the drain pump was working, it does not mean that the wash pump was working too.
Remove the toe panel and make sure the wash pump motor is working while the control calls for wash. If it is, check the water level inside the dishwasher.
Gene. Thanks Gene! I'll give it a check after I locate it. Your patience is appreciated!!!
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Gene,
I'm guessing that the circulation pump is located between the main (large 3-4" in diameter) motor and the chopper assy. I think I can here it running. Is it possible that the circulation pump impellers are worn out/damaged and only the pump impeller assy needs replacing?
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