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jimklo  
#31 Posted : Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:48:25 PM(UTC)
jimklo

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Hi, I've got a 11 yr old Kenmore 106.53602201, same symptoms... Hot compressor - all fans working, not cold.

I'm not sure which terminals are what on the compressor, but this is what I get:

white - blue: 12 ohms

white - red: 4 ohms

blue - red: 8 ohms

Does this mean my compressor is okay? Or is it dead?

Thanks,

Jim
Roy r  
#32 Posted : Monday, November 19, 2012 7:11:25 AM(UTC)
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The info I found online indicates that your compressor is fine. 8 + 4 = 12. Your problem may be your relay and/or overload switch -- which is attached to your compressor.
carl0524  
#33 Posted : Sunday, December 2, 2012 10:43:19 AM(UTC)
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I have an lg lbc22518ww that has this problem everything seems to running but not cooling. compressor gets hot and seems like its not cycling. looking for test procedure to see if its compressor unit or just ptc or overload. thanks
Roy r  
#34 Posted : Sunday, December 2, 2012 10:58:30 AM(UTC)
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Hello carl0524. Check out this video for how to test if you compressor is ok or not: HVAC Ohming Compressor Windings - YouTube

Good luck.
carl0524  
#35 Posted : Sunday, December 2, 2012 5:23:00 PM(UTC)
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ok 3.7, 4.8, 8.5 ptc smelt burnt
bfgoodmudder  
#36 Posted : Tuesday, December 18, 2012 5:07:24 PM(UTC)
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Hi, I have a Maytag side by side. I ohm tested the three round terminals on the compressor and got 0 or short on all of them. Does that definitely mean the compressor is bad?

Thanks
denman  
#37 Posted : Thursday, December 20, 2012 2:04:27 AM(UTC)
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bfgoodmudder

If the readings are correct then yes it is toast.

I have my doubts about the readings.
Did you use the most sensitive meter scale, if not then due to the dispay resolution low resistances will read zero.

Below is my standard blurb on meter usage.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

One thing to note is that even if the windings read OK, it does not mean that the compressor is OK, it could still have mechanical problems.
In other words winding resistance tests can tell you if the compressor is bad but not that it is good.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
bfgoodmudder  
#38 Posted : Friday, December 21, 2012 6:05:18 PM(UTC)
bfgoodmudder

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Hi denman,

You're right, I figured out the capacitive readings on the meter. The compressor is good. I did figure out that the run capacitor is reading a short or no continuity. Not sure if that's all or even part of the problem though. The relay seems to be doing it's job, and the fan runs. The fridge is cooling at the bottom. found some frozen tomatoes at the bottom of the fridge but the upper section is not cooling. I emptied the freezer section and pulled the rear panel in front of the coil radiator thing to check on frost. Didn't find much, a light dusting on top, and a very light dusting throughout. I have since left the cover partially off to see what it's going to do and it has accumulated some frost on top. The compressor isn't getting too hot and I can feel a warm line and a cool line coming off of it. One other thing, right before the fridge started with these issues, the water supply to the ice maker and water dispenser quit, the freezer started melting as did all the ice in the collection tray, leaving a nice wet mess in the freezer as all the ice melted. The items in the freezer door however, are still frozen. I still hear the water trying to pump, but no water. Needless to say I am very stumped as to where to look from here. Any help would be appreciated. CS


Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
bfgoodmudder

If the readings are correct then yes it is toast.

I have my doubts about the readings.
Did you use the most sensitive meter scale, if not then due to the dispay resolution low resistances will read zero.

Below is my standard blurb on meter usage.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

One thing to note is that even if the windings read OK, it does not mean that the compressor is OK, it could still have mechanical problems.
In other words winding resistance tests can tell you if the compressor is bad but not that it is good.
denman  
#39 Posted : Friday, December 21, 2012 6:39:07 PM(UTC)
denman

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Bad news, it sounds like a sealed system problem.
This would the an expensive repair as it requires a pro. Often it makes more sense to put those dollars towards a new unit.

Note that the compressor has to run for a couple hours, if you do the evaporator coil check shortly after a defrost you could end up with the wrong conclusion.

Below is a link, check out the three example pictures part way down the page.
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator-not-cold-enough.php
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
bfgoodmudder  
#40 Posted : Friday, December 21, 2012 6:54:08 PM(UTC)
bfgoodmudder

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Bad news, it sounds like a sealed system problem.
This would the an expensive repair as it requires a pro. Often it makes more sense to put those dollars towards a new unit.

Note that the compressor has to run for a couple hours, if you do the evaporator coil check shortly after a defrost you could end up with the wrong conclusion.

Below is a link, check out the three example pictures part way down the page.
http://www.applianceaid.com/ref...ator-not-cold-enough.php



The compressor has been running for a couple of days. Never actually did a complete defrost because it didn't appear to need it. Still a sealed system issue? Any idea why the water quit?
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