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Originally Posted by: jdove  ...Actually I also found about 120 V for the wires leads
while disconnected to these terminals! That has me really confused. Aren't the BA
terminals output terminals? So how can the wires be hot when disconnected to the
terminals (this is all in bake mode... Jim, It can be because of the second 120 VAC leg coming through the heating element. Measure the voltage between the BA terminal and the wire which was connected to this terminal while the oven is on. If the reading is about 240 VAC then it should heat. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
OK, I'll measure when I get home tonight. But I know it isn't
heating (at all). So assuming this Delta V is correct, what would
the next step be? Is there a fuse anywhere in this circuit? If the voltage
is correct, what is the most likely scenario for both bakes and both
broils not to work (All four heating elements couldn't go out at once, right)?
Thanks,
Jim
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Jim,
If the reading will be 240 VAC, reconnect all back and give it a try.
Gene.
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Hi,
The reading between the BA terminal and the wire that used
to be connected to this terminal is zero. Each is 120 VAC with
respect to ground, but they must be in phase as it is zero and not
240.
More info. The voltage difference between BA (lower oven) and L1 (as measured
at the thermal switch) is zero when in Bake mode, even though both BA is 120
with respect to ground and the thermal switch is 120 with respect to ground. So L1 and
L2 seem in phase! This is with both oven bakes on. When I only have the lower
oven bake on, then the voltage of the thermal switch is zero with respect to ground. Only
when I turn the upper oven on does this voltage at the thermal switch go to 120 with respect to ground. Is there a second thermal switch I'm missing for the lower oven?
Jim
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Jim,
If you did not remove the oven completely from the cabinet yet, it's time to do it. You have to check all wires on the back of the oven and in the control compartment. Check the voltage at the oven terminal block (where the power is coming into the oven).
Gene.
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Hi Gene,
ok, I'll confirm I'm getting 240 from the outlet tomorrow when
a friend can help me lift it out of the cabinet. But can you give
me more guidance on what else to check for? When you say check all
wires, what am I looking for? Can you give me voltages between different
wires that I should be getting?
Also, is there only one thermal circuit breaker for this oven? The circuit
diagram shows two but I only see one.
Thanks,
Jim
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I have another question. When I measure L2 at the relay terminals, with
respect to ground, I'm getting zero unless I turn the oven on. Looking
at the circuit diagram, it seems L2 should always be 120 V (with respect
to ground), and that BA or BR first turns to 120 when I turn the oven on.
Is this not correct?
Thanks
Jim
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: jdove I have another question. When I measure L2 at the relay terminals, with
respect to ground, I'm getting zero unless I turn the oven on. Looking
at the circuit diagram, it seems L2 should always be 120 V (with respect
to ground), and that BA or BR first turns to 120 when I turn the oven on.
Is this not correct?
Thanks
Jim Yes Jim. This is not correct and that means that L2 leg is missing. You have to trace it to find out why and where it disappeared. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Yep, fried L2 wire in the plug itself of the oven. Replaced plug
and oven is now working.
Thanks for your help, and steering me away from relay boards!
Jim
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You are welcome Jim. I'm glad to hear that you were able to find what was wrong and fix it.
Gene.
P.S. I had the feeling about faulty power supply from very beginning.
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