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Hi Gene,
Thanks for the reply.
The voltage supply seems fine. Had a repair man come
out and he claims it is the "computer board," but
he wouldn't specify if it was the control panel or the two
relays. I find it hard to believe both relays (controlling upper and
lower ovens) would go out simultaneously, so I'm thinking just
the control panel. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Jim
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Hi Jim, I agree with you that both relay boards can not go bad at the same time. Quote:... Lots of clicks are heard while it is in
"preheat" mode... That means that relays were working as well as the display board. You said that "the voltage supply seems fine". May I ask you: how did you know that? Have you checked the oven terminal block? If it's proven that there is proper voltage (240 VAC) to the oven, then you have to check the thermal switches (#119 at the diagram and at the other diagram). Gene.
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Hi Gene,
I confirmed that there is 240 exiting from circuit breaker panel. I can't
access the plug behind the oven as it is in the back bottom, and
I can't pull the entire oven out of the enclosure by myself. But
the plug is still firmly plugged into the outlet.
I can try to measure the thermal switch voltage. What voltage should
I get?
I hear two clicks when I set the temp and it goes into preheat mode (for
bake). You don't think it can be the control panel or the clock/timer unit?
Thanks for your help,
Jim
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Hi Gene,
More info: I got to the thermal switch and it is continuous (with the oven
off and the two wires still attached).
Jim
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Jim,
You have to remove the wires at least from one side of the thermal switch. Also these switches are resettable. Try to push in the red button in the center of the switch.
Gene.
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Hi Gene,
OK, with one wire disconnected, I'm getting 0.4 Ohms across
the thermal switch (with oven off). With the oven turned on to Bake,
I'm getting 122 V with respect to the chasis (on either side of the thermal
switch)
Jim
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Hi Jim, Look at the wiring diagram. Seems like the L2 leg is missing. Remove the oven top shield to access the relay boards. All terminals at the relay boards are marked. Turn off the power to the oven. Locate the L2 terminals at any of the boards and remove the wires connected to them. Make sure the wires are not touching any other wires and/or any metal parts. Turn the power on and check the voltage between each of those wires and the ground. The normal reading suppose to be about 120 VAC. If the voltage reading is incorrect, trace this wire to the circuit breaker to find where it got lost. Gene. P.S. You can do this test for the other relay board as well.
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for the reply. I removed all 6 L2 wires, one at a time, and
tested the voltage. Each has 120 V when I turned the oven on to
Bake (V=0 with the oven off). I should mention, that one of the relays,
on the board with the transformer, clicks quite a bit when the oven
is set to bake. Often, there will be two clicks, 0.5 s apart, and then
nothing for 30 seconds, and then a click, then another a few seconds later,
etc. When I had L2 out that feeds the oven lamp relay, I could
"feel" the click acoustically with my voltometer probe, and sometimes,
after a click, this L2 wire would go to zero, and then back to 120 after
the next click.
Hmmm. You really don't think it is the control panel or clock/timer?
Jim
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Reconnect all wires you removed earlier. Remove the wire from the BA terminal at each of the relay boards. Check the voltage between the each of the BA terminal (one at a time) and the ground while the control calls for Bake for both ovens. The power should cycle On & Off and the normal reading should be about 120 VAC.
Gene.
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I got about 124 for each of the BA terminal with respect to the chasis ground,
when the Oven was set to bake. Actually I also found about 120 V for the wires leads
while disconnected to these terminals! That has me really confused. Aren't the BA
terminals output terminals? So how can the wires be hot when disconnected to the
terminals (this is all in bake mode. Everything is zero when I hit cancel).
Jim
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