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M.rain21  
#41 Posted : Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:12:16 PM(UTC)
M.rain21

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Hello, Gene!

I'm having the same problem with the stove: the oven won't heat while the top works just fine. We replaced EOC part (AP2126119 (316131601), "Error 1" message dissapeared, but the stove still didn't heat. Then we bought Prove - Over Thermostat (Part AP2126179 (316134900)and it still didn't heat.

Do you know what might have gone wrong? My husband is trying to fix it himself, but it looks like it would have been cheaper just to buy a new oven...


Frustrated.
Gene  
#42 Posted : Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:59:50 PM(UTC)
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Pull the range out of the wall. Remove the rear cover and check the wires between the EOC and the heating elements. Check each heating element for continuity.

Gene.
markpalma  
#43 Posted : Monday, May 28, 2012 3:28:42 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
What is the complete model number of the range?

If this range is electric then there are suppose to be 240 volts outlet for the range and a double circuit breaker (at least 30 amps each) in the breaker box.

Gene.


Gene, unfortunately you are completely wrong on this post but thank you for suggesting the most expensive, and yet incorrect, replacement part. Here is the correct solution:

The thermal switch/fuse (Manufacturer Number 318004902 on my model #CPET3085KF2 for ex.) is located under the metal housing in the very back of the oven. The "Clean" cycle effectively has the oven run full blast at 550 for 3hrs which tends to trip this breaker. Once you've fixed the problem, don't run the Clean cycle again. Stick to soap/water.

In case you’re wondering why the oven heated up slowly as opposed to not at all, the reason is that the thermal breaker sits on only one leg of the 220v line. When it blows, you still have 110 volts coming in from the other half of the circuit, but this isn’t enough power to heat the oven up to really high temperatures. The 110V line that remains also powers the front panel and the circulating fan, so the oven “appears” to be working fine, even though half of the heating capacity is shed. We were somewhat surprised that Electrolux didn’t include some type of error code on the panel when this happens.

Relevant Links:

Frigidaire / Electrolux Oven Heats up Slowly - One Project Closer

Frigidaire Electrolux Oven Reset
Gene  
#44 Posted : Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:03:04 PM(UTC)
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Dear markpalma,

You removed a few words from the whole context, just to blame me that I was wrong.

Well, the post you quoted (page 1 of this thread), was addressed to paulos in reply of his question regarding problem with the oven CLOCK and SURFACE elements. The thermal switch, you mentioned, is a safety device which controls power to the OVEN heating elements and is definitely not connected to the clock and/or surface elements.

Also this switch is used for only a few models while Frigidaire (division of Electrolux) made a few hundreds different models of ovens and ranges.

At the very beginning of the troubleshooting, whoever does it, should check the wiring diagram for this particular model number in order to determine any possible cause of the problem. That's why I always ask for the complete model number if someone forgot to post it. At that time presence of such switch can be easy figure out. The good example is my conversation with AutumnOwen (page 4) regarding the problem with his range.

So, I'm assuming you did not read the whole thread yet.

Gene.
greenstuff  
#45 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 9:32:05 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene

Model Pleb27s9fcd

Panel is on and oven lights work but none of the heating elements come on. Is this an EOC issue?

Thanks
Gene  
#46 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:26:53 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Make sure there is 240 VAC to the oven.

Remove the oven from the cabinet and check the thermal switch on the back of the oven for continuity. If it's open, try to reset it by pushing in the central red button. If it would not fix it, replace the thermal switch.

If there is nothing wrong with the thermal switch, replace the control board (EOC).

- The thermal switch Part number: 318004900
greenstuff  
#47 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:11:01 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Make sure there is 240 VAC to the oven.

Remove the oven from the cabinet and check the thermal switch on the back of the oven for continuity. If it's open, try to reset it by pushing in the central red button. If it would not fix it, replace the thermal switch.

If there is nothing wrong with the thermal switch, replace the control board (EOC).

- The thermal switch Part number: 318004900
I should have told someone to reset the breaker not check the breaker. When I got home I reset the breaker and the oven is working again.

Thanks
Gene  
#48 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:20:08 PM(UTC)
Gene

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I'm glad it was that simple.

Gene.
jdove  
#49 Posted : Wednesday, September 19, 2012 10:14:04 PM(UTC)
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I'm having a similar issue:

Model: FEB398WECD

Worked fine yesterday but now neither oven will heat up at all,
neither with broil or boil. Lots of clicks are heard while it is in
"preheat" mode. Already checked circuit breaker (not tripped)...

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jim
Gene  
#50 Posted : Thursday, September 20, 2012 11:00:27 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Jim,

It looks like a problem with the power supply even if the circuit breaker seems to be good. It can be a loose or broken wire at the oven terminal block, loose or broken wire in the junction box behind the oven or a bad circuit breaker. If you don't feel comfortable to work with the live power it may be better to call a certified electrician to check it for you.

Gene.
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