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Originally Posted by: Gene  Did you see frost on the back panel in the freezer? If you did, then the problem is a faulty defrost system. Go to the first post for the troubleshooting instructions. If there is no frost, then most likely the problem is a bad damper control. - The part number for the damper control is AP100860 Gene. I have Whirlpol model ET22RKXYW00 Freezer is fine, frige is warm (45-49 F degree) temperature control set as factory default on freezer and fridge 1.check evaporator coil fan--OK 2.evaporator coil no frost, no ice, check back and under coil fan, no block ice 3.removed separate insulator, clear few ice at left and right corner of air reurn 4.check defrot timer (follow Gene forum to use screw drive clockwise turn, did not hear sizzleing sound,wait 10-15 minutes, counter clockwise back, I heard click and compressor start) 5.door rubber seal is fine. 6.feel fridge no cold air circle, damper has weak air come out but not cool down fridge 7. any idea? Thanks,
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If there is no frost on the evaporator coils that means there is something wrong with the sealed system. Pull the refrigerator out of the wall. Remove the front bottom grill and the cover on the back of the refrigerator. Clean the condenser coils and make sure the fan next to the compressor works fine. If after 24 hours you would not see any improvements, call a certified tech to check the sealed system. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool ET22RKXYW00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene If there is no frost on the evaporator coils that means there is something wrong with the sealed system. Pull the refrigerator out of the wall. Remove the front bottom grill and the cover on the back of the refrigerator. Clean the condenser coils and make sure the fan next to the compressor works fine. If after 24 hours you would not see any improvements, call a certified tech to check the sealed system. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool ET22RKXYW00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.comGene. Gene, thank you very much for your advise, I will followup, have couple questions, 1. I put digital thermostates in refrig upper level, overnight(11PM to 8:AM), temperature is 39 degree,but lower level is 43 degree, in daily regular use, temperature is around 45 (upper and lower), is this normal condition? or something to do with sealed system, 2. In forum, you mention defect damper control??
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Originally Posted by: chihaofu ...
1. I put digital thermostates in refrig upper level, overnight(11PM to 8:AM), temperature is 39 degree,but lower level is 43 degree, in daily regular use, temperature is around 45 (upper and lower), is this normal condition? or something to do with sealed system,
2. In forum, you mention defect damper control?... 1. Any temperature over 40°F in any section of the fresh food compartment is not good. 2. It can be disputable in case of sufficient temperature in the freezer which you did not mention. Gene.
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GE model GSS22KGPCWW. ~9 years old.
Fridge warming up, freezer cold with frost on back wall.
Looking at the diagram on this site, there is no defrost timer or thermostat that I can see. There's a main board shown on the sealed syatem diagram and, of course, pcb's for the temp settings in the fresh food door.
To test the heater on this model, do I have to remove the ice maker and dispenser motor or is the back wall cover removable below them.
And, if the heater is good, what to look at next. Thanks
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Whirlpool side by side Model ED22DQXBW00, the drain at the bottom of the freezer section keeps getting iced over, refrigerator section not cooling properly. Freezer thermostat set to coldest so that refrigerator section is reasonably cool, but the vent on top left of that section does not blow enough cold air and there is ice forming there. The bottom hole between freezer and refirgerator is open, not blocked, sometimes ice forms there also. Is there some other block in the air circulation between freezer and refrigerator? Is there some type of heater for the defrost system that could be having a problem? TIA for any suggestions.
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Originally Posted by: ment2b GE model GSS22KGPCWW. ~9 years old.
Fridge warming up, freezer cold with frost on back wall.
Looking at the diagram on this site, there is no defrost timer or thermostat that I can see. There's a main board shown on the sealed syatem diagram and, of course, pcb's for the temp settings in the fresh food door.
To test the heater on this model, do I have to remove the ice maker and dispenser motor or is the back wall cover removable below them.
And, if the heater is good, what to look at next. Thanks You can start the troubleshooting using the instructions from one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...-fridge-temperature.html - The main control board Part number: WR55X10942
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Thanks gene !
I checked the defrost heater first because, either way, I needed to get the frost out so the fridge would work before I ordered the part. The panel was easy access and held on with only 2 screws.
Turned out the heater was bad. I was surprised the thing was cooling at all with the amount of frost/ice covering the evaporator coils. This must have been building up for quite some time. Took over an hr with a hair dryer to get it all melted. I had the back grill off so I could soak up all the water that was draining out.
Edit: Picture in my next post below
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Originally Posted by: Philips Whirlpool side by side Model ED22DQXBW00, the drain at the bottom of the freezer section keeps getting iced over, refrigerator section not cooling properly. Freezer thermostat set to coldest so that refrigerator section is reasonably cool, but the vent on top left of that section does not blow enough cold air and there is ice forming there. The bottom hole between freezer and refirgerator is open, not blocked, sometimes ice forms there also. Is there some other block in the air circulation between freezer and refrigerator? Is there some type of heater for the defrost system that could be having a problem? TIA for any suggestions. By setting the freezer temperature control to the coldest position you almost closed the air flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. Using this control you actually operating with the air diffuser. Try to set the refrigerator temperature control to 4 and the freezer temperature control close to warmer position. Measure the temperature in both compartments 24 hours after you change the settings and post the results. In regards of the problem with the drain from the freezer try to blow some air through the drain line after you defrosted it. Make sure the other end of the drain hose (on the back of the refrigerator) is clean as well. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: ment2b Thanks gene !
I checked the defrost heater first because, either way, I needed to get the frost out so the fridge would work before I ordered the part. The panel was easy access and held on with only 2 screws.
Turned out the heater was bad. I was surprised the thing was cooling at all with the amount of frost/ice covering the evaporator coils. This must have been building up for quite some time. Took over an hr with a hair dryer to get it all melted. I had the back grill off so I could soak up all the water that was draining out.
I tried posting a pic, but apparently not allowed ?? You are welcome. Hopefully the new heater will fix it. Thank you for the feed back. Gene.
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