Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 50
|
I couldn't work on the dryer for awhile due to an injury. Anyway, I'll be doing the check today and post the temperatures. I wasn't sure what temp ranges I should be seeing. I have the standard oven thermometer that reads 150F to 600F. It is one of those hanger/stand types. And then have the stick type for putting into vents etc that reads to 0F to 220F. I'll try the 600F first. I don't know what temps I should be seeing.
==================
Preliminary Reading:
Very Confusing??? On Hi temp dry, here's what happens. The flame/igniter are not turning on. The cycle is like this. Upon start up , the igniter gets hot. Then the flame ignites and burns for a short time. Turns off. Then ignites again, burns. Then turns off. Then it stays off. Does not ignite again until turn off the dryer. Then restart it. It does the same thing.
-----------------------
Now when I turn off the dryer and restart, it is not lighting the igniter hot plate. Nothing. And the vent temp is well below 100F. Feels room temp.
Can it be the two coils that are intermittent working? I am going to try again in 5 mins to see if it ignites.
At the very beginning, I read these temp. Low Temp reading... 135F and 160F,
Hi Temp reading:.. 155F
I hit the blower inside and the probe thermometer (Meat type thermometer) broke. I took the high temp with the oven thermometer.
I am watching the low temp now and will report that shortly.
====================
Now it is no longer igniting. Where should I be looking? I have a wiring diagram ansd there is a cent Sw. What is the Cent?
I'll check the resistance in the coils again?
---------------------------
So pulling off the coils, I found a wire off by itself. It fell off/broke off from what is the flame sensor that looks at the flame. So have to replace it. It may be that it was vibrating and sort of electrically connecting. The male tab on the sensor broke off and just laying there. Looks like the blue wire (hot) side was coming off and finally broke. The white (neutral) wire is still firmly attached. It was intermittent connection. I cannot reattach it since the male prong came off the sensor switch. Now can I test the rest by connecting the two together to see if this is the problem? It would be like bypassing the switch. This switch needs replacement anyway but I'd like to check further if there is another problem.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: jmrec100  ...The male tab on the sensor broke off and just laying there. Looks like the blue wire (hot) side was coming off and finally broke... Very likely that was the cause of the problem. Do not bypass it, because it should work as a switch to turn the power to the igniter on & off. I would recommend not to do any tests until you will order and replace the flame switch. - The flame switch Part number: 338906
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 50
|
I replaced the switch and it is working. Seems that terminal was connecting/disconnecting and then finally failed. Now it cycles through flame, off , and flame again as it is supposed to. Crazy problem to trace. Thanks for the help. I replaced it from the bottom panel. Did not have to disassembly it as the video states. My dryer has a lower panel that pops open.
Question on the flame sensor. Is it a bimetal type switch?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: jmrec100 ...Is it a bimetal type switch?... Yes, it is. Such problem is what we call "technicians nightmare". I'm glad you were able to fix it. Thank you for the feed back. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/9/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Hi Gene,
My problem is different than the one on this thread but I've worked with you before on a fridge and was wondering if u could help with the dryer.
Model: Kenmore model #41780042990
Problem: Began making a minor squeeking noise about a month ago but no probs w/ usage. last week made loud squeeling/squeeking noise-opened up back vent to look at belt-played w/ it a little-sound went away and dried 2 loads of clothes. Went to dry another load. Turned start dial-sounds like its turning on but drum not spinning-figured it was belt. Replaced belt which was well worn but not broken w/ father in law. As we were trying to put drum back onto front support, noticed some broken plastic pieces had fallen off (thinking they are the glides??) Tried out dryer-will start but then drum slows and stops. Tried again and wont turn. Before I replace what I think are the glides wanted to see if you think it may also be something else.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Besides the front felt glide assembly you may want to check and replace the rear bearing assembly and the lower front felt seal. - The front felt glide assembly Part number: 5303937139
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/22/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Hi Gene, I'm back with the same problem. Couldn't log into the site to post for some reason. Keep getting an error 20 or something and the help guys really didn't have an answer. Created this account. A continuation of jmrec100. Anyway, here goes.
Been living with LONG drying times. Requires 3 cycles of a setting of 70 each to dry pants. used to take at most one cycle. But I have to fix it. Last time, I found a broken Flame sensor. Replaced that and it is operating the flame now.
But takes forever to dry. I have taken the dryer vent chutes apart, checked the vent hose, the stack (Ran a brush up the stack and its clear) and it still takes forever to dry. I took some numbers and times for the flame on and off at the high dry setting. I will post it shortly. Putting it together in a readable fashion.
I am going to run a very long wire up to the roof where the stack is and check even further. As a last resort, I may cut open the stack in the attic to be sure. Can't access it on a tile roof.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/22/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
The numbers. I used my phone stop timer from zero start.
Ran at high temp setting. 1st set with no vent hose connected, but a cold start dryer.
High Temp Setting
NO VENT HOSE CONNECTION - START COLD DRYER,
Hot plate on 0
Flame ignite 24 sec
Flame off 4:40 mins
Hot Plate starts 5:48 mins
Flame turns back on 6:00 mins about 12 secs between Hot Plate start & ignite
Flame Off 7:44
Hot Plate on 8:44
Flame on 8:51 approx 7 secs to ignite flame
Flame off 10:27
Hot Plate on 11:26
Flame on: 11:34
Flame off 13:05
========================
With VENT fully connected, Warmed up Dryer
Hot Plate start 0
Flame ignite 24 secs
Flame off 1:17 min
Hot Plate starts 2:45
Flame turns back on 2:56
Flame Off 3:25
Hot Plate on 4:56
Flame on 5:04
Flame off 5:31
Hot Plate on 7:06
Flame on: 7:15
Flame off 7:41
==========================================
With VENT Hose on Dryer but not connected to wall stack, Warmed up Dryer
Hot Plate start 0
Flame ignite 14 secs
Flame off 1:06 min
Hot Plate starts 1:52
Flame turns back on 2:02
Flame Off 2:46
Hot Plate on 3:35
Flame on 3:45
Flame off 4:29
Hot Plate on 5:18
Flame on: 5:28
Flame off 6:14
Hot Plate on 7:07
Flame on: 7:15
Flame off 7:58
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: japp111
...NO VENT HOSE CONNECTION - START COLD DRYER,
Hot plate on 0
Flame ignite 24 sec
Flame off 4:40 mins
Hot Plate starts 5:48 mins
Flame turns back on 6:00 mins about 12 secs between Hot Plate start & ignite
Flame Off 7:44
Hot Plate on 8:44
Flame on 8:51 approx 7 secs to ignite flame
Flame off 10:27
Hot Plate on 11:26
Flame on: 11:34
Flame off 13:05...
These timings are perfect and it shows there is something wrong with the hose and the vent. Try to run a load with no vent hose connected. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/23/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Had to use another ID because this one won't let me on either. Same jmrec100 and japp111.
I ran a whole bunch of times at Low, med and high with vent hose only, no vent attached and then the vent hose completely hooked up. When I connected the vent hose to the outside vent, the times went really long, especially on low. So something is plugged up. Suspect a bird's nest? Or clogged lint or maybe an animal? I hope not. I'm going to run a drain snake up the vent and see if I hook some junk. I had used a refrigerator brush before and reach up about 4 feet and it was clear. So I thought it was clear to the top. Guess not. It's a tile roof so I can't stand on it. I'll climb up a ladder as far as I can to see if I can see if something went over the outlet. Then I'll access it thru the attic and cut a hole or cut open the vent pipe and run a brush up and down it. Bought a 4" connector for ducting and will use it with duct tape to seal it back up. I'll post what I find.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
