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dh1200s  
#11 Posted : Monday, May 7, 2012 11:28:17 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Originally Posted by: britinva Go to Quoted Post
Dick,

Any reason I can't reverse the connections so the Bleach valve becomes Softener & vice versa (i.e. switch pipes and electrical connectors).

This way thinking can prove a valve issue befor purchasing.

Wife very rarely uses the bleach reservoir.

Thanks,
Mark



Mark I'll post some old pics of the dispenser fill valve if you have not already removed. I would replace that assembly. From reading the post again "" 5. Pressed Wrinkle Control key, heard humm but water was not diverted to the Fabric Softener reservoir as verified by dry paper towel.""

It looks like that Fabric Softener valve is stuck closed. I would like to measure 120VAC on the connections just to make sure but with ears only testing (120VAC 60Hz hum testing) it sounds to me you nailed the problem down......a stuck Fabric Softener valve.

""Any reason I can't reverse the connections so the Bleach valve becomes Softener & vice versa (i.e. switch pipes and electrical connectors).

This way thinking can prove a valve issue befor purchasing.""

From what I see no pipe switching just reverse the 120VAC connections on the dispenser valve assembly....... if there is enough wiring harness slack to allow that. I have never done that so I can't say for sure if it can be done.

If the wiring connections could be reversed then the Bleach Dispenser valve is now turned on by the 120VAC coming from the Fabric Softener relay on the Control Board and it will fill that reservoir at the proper wash cycle calls. I'm not sure if the Bleach Dispenser reservoir will drain/release the FS conrents properly you would have to observe.

Are you sure the Washer Lid is not bowed? I forgot to ask that question. See the last pic. Make sure the dispenser fill ports line up with the water channels to the reservoir's.

I still lean toward a valve assembly replacement.........I feel you nailed down the issue but if you want to give it a try........ just work safely with 120VAC.

3 pic limit per post wiil show additional Dispenser Valve pics.

Good luck Mark and let us know how it goes..........Dick
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
Bleach and Softner dispenser valve 2.JPG
Bleach Dispenser.JPG
Dispenser valve assemble 1.jpg
dh1200s  
#12 Posted : Monday, May 7, 2012 11:34:48 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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More Pic's

Last Pic center port is water inlet from washer inlet valves via short black hose.
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
Dispenser valve assemble 2.jpg
Dispenser valve assemble 4.jpg
Dispenser valve assemble 3.jpg
britinva  
#13 Posted : Sunday, September 2, 2012 10:56:41 AM(UTC)
britinva

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I finally got around to changing out the dispenser valve.

Unfortunatly still have a problem in softener not being taken.

Something I have uncovered during the output testing is:

- If I perfom Hot Water + Softener test the tissue gets wet in the softener reservoir

- If I perfom Cold Water + Softener test the tissue does not get wet in the softener reservoir. I hear the water running when I start the cold water [Spin] test and then when I sart the softener [Wrikle Comtrol] test I hear a hum.

Any ideas?
britinva  
#14 Posted : Monday, September 3, 2012 12:51:43 PM(UTC)
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Been doing some further troubleshooting.

1) Checked cold water pressure..... seems to be no issue with that.

2) Removed the Inlet Water Valve and ensured the sediment fllters were clean.

3) Dismantled Lid and made sure that everything was aligned, no dents in lid etc.

4) With lid removed and just the inner panel in place observed the cold water and softner diverter. Seemed like water was diverting.

Still if I do board test with Cold Water/Softner the tissue in softner reservoir is dry. If Hot Water/Softner the tissue is wet.

My wife usually runs machine with Auto Temp control set to Cold rinse. Tested with a Warm Rinse and it was taken.

Think what might be next step is to switch the water lines and see if issue persists....or if it switches to the detergent. Guess that way will know if its the water line or the inlet valve..... maybe next weekend :)
dh1200s  
#15 Posted : Monday, September 3, 2012 2:21:10 PM(UTC)
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Mark,

Your troubleshooting sounds real solid.

""Still if I do board test with Cold Water/Softener the tissue in softener reservoir is dry. If Hot Water/Softener the tissue is wet.""

The relay on the Control Board (K5) that switches 120VAC to the Softener valve I feel should be independent of hot or cold water flowing to the Softener dispenser valve....... but I could be wrong.

From you previous troubleshooting you hear the softener solenoid valve hum.

This make no sense to me that a warm water test works OK and Cold doesn&#8217;t assuming that cold water flows unrestricted to the dispenser fill valve&#8230;..and you replaced that dispenser valve assembly.

I would like to be onsite with my DVM and watch/measure 120VAC applied to the Softener valve in service mode with proper cold water flow to the dispenser valve&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Dick
britinva  
#16 Posted : Monday, September 3, 2012 2:34:14 PM(UTC)
britinva

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Dick, Thanks for replying

Yes. The Dispenser Valve has been changed.

My thinking is if I switch the water feeds if problem persists then its possibly the Water Inlet Valve. If problem moves to the Detergent then it is a Water flow issue (can't see that as its strong).

When I next test I'll dig out my DVM.

So where are you Located - I'm in Ashburn, VA.

Thanks,
Mark
dh1200s  
#17 Posted : Monday, September 3, 2012 6:21:44 PM(UTC)
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""My thinking is if I switch the water feeds if problem persists then its possibly the Water Inlet Valve. If problem moves to the Detergent then it is a Water flow issue (can't see that as its strong).""

Thats sounds good maybe that that cold inlet valve is sticking closed from time to time. Have you ever taken a NF alarm for No Fill? That is a comon alarm for a stuck water inlet valve.

""So where are you Located - I'm in Ashburn, VA.""

Honey Brook, PA. West of Phila and East of Lancaster.

Good luck Mark and good troubleshooting..........Dick
britinva  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, September 4, 2012 7:46:53 AM(UTC)
britinva

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Dick,

The machine has never provided any Alarm codes

Cheers,
Mark
britinva  
#19 Posted : Saturday, September 8, 2012 10:18:16 AM(UTC)
britinva

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Dick,

So I reversed the water lines so Hot flowing thru Cold Inlet and Cold flowing thru Hot Inlet.

Had exactly same results where with the Board test with Cold [Spin] & Softener [Normal] no water in softner reservoir and Hot [Heavy] & Softener [Normal] water was in reservoir.

So think can safely rule out water pressure.

So very much looks like its the Water Inlet Valve at fault.

I do have a DVM but not sure I want to risk damaging the board.

So if Wife wants cold rinse then think will need to replace the Water Inlet Valve.

Agree?

Cheers,
Mark
dh1200s  
#20 Posted : Sunday, September 9, 2012 8:14:33 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Mark,
I want to make sure I&#8217;m crystal clear on the troubleshooting and fault location process.

&#8220;&#8221;So I reversed the water lines so Hot flowing thru Cold Inlet and Cold flowing thru Hot Inlet.&#8221;&#8221;

OK that is good way to fault isolate the water inlet valve for Stuck Closed with 120VAC applied to the solenoid or open solenoid field coil in that half of the valve assembly.

&#8220;&#8221;Had exactly same results where with the Board test with Cold [Spin] & Softener [Normal] no water in softner reservoir and Hot [Heavy] & Softener [Normal] water was in reservoir.&#8221;&#8221;

So from where I sit with the troubleshooting the Cold Water Inlet Valve is either stuck closed with 120VAC applied or is not receiving 120VAC from the Control Board down thru the wiring harness to the Cold Water inlet valve. If that is the case so you could never do a Cold Water fill of the washer and the Control Board would have signaled a NF console alarm for No Fill after several minutes.

Normal the hoses up and Set the washer up for Cold/Cold selection on the Wash/Rinse Temp setting and see if the washer will fill.

Select Quick Wash so that you do a minimal fill that will be around 6 inches of water in the wash basket. Keep the Hot Water source valve turned off to make sure the Cold Water source valve is only supplying water to the washer.

If the washer fills we have an intermittent issue with the Cold Water half of the water inlet valve. If no water flows we have a either a stuck Cold Water inlet valve with 120VAC applied from the Control Board via the wiring harness or loss of 120VAC to the Cold Water half of the valve assembly.

So if it were me I would confirm 120VAC via DVM measurement is applied to that Cold Water inlet valve solenoid. Only make that measurement if you are confident working around 120VAC measurements. Turn off Hot/Cold water source to the machine and turn on the Cold Water inlet valve in Service Mode and see if you get 120VAC applied to that half of the valve assembly.

Other Option is to just replace the water inlet valve assembly and hope this is not an issue with loss of 120VAC to the Cold Water inlet valve.

Good luck and I&#8217;ll stay with you until resolution. If anyone else has suggestions please chime in to help Mark resolve the issue&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;Dick
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