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Originally Posted by: igaum7  I’ll give you some basic info but post further support in the thread;
I assume no water in the Fabric Softner reservoir so the reservoir discharge port is not clogged. If you fill that reservoir with a some water it does drain out correct?
If so see the Service Manual page 16 of the SM bottom of the page Board Output Test. You want to turn on the Fabric Softner Valve in Service Mode and verify you have water flow into the reservoir. I place a piece paper towel across the reservoir close the washer lid and press the Wrinkle Control key. You should hear the valve hum from 60 cycle 120VAC across it’s field coil and after 5 seconds turn off the Fabric Softner Valve as described in Board Output Test. Further troubleshooting may be required like using a DVM to check if the Fabric Softner relay on the Control Board is sending 120VAC to the Fabric Softner water valve. In regard to the unbalance issue you may be ready for an Outer Tub rebuild down the road if you want to keep the machine going. I'll try to help but and if I can't I'm sure other appliance tech's or owners with more hands on then I will chime in. I'm slow to respond at times like now.... I'm tearing out my Hot Water boiler system and revamping...... and my real job sometimes get's in the way. Chat with you soon Kris.........Dick
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Hi Dick,
This is my first time posting here. Found you all on a search for how to fix my washer. Your description of the clutch issue is exactly what my problem seems to be. I read through the entire forum here and was excited to get started on a DIY to fix my washer and save money. I printed out your instructions, the SM pages you recommended, and got started. I got as far as taking off the drive belt and was stopped when I could not loosen the clutch bolt AT ALL. I thought I was perhaps turning the bolt the wrong way, but I was going CW and could not budge. I cannot get my socket wrench in there well enough, but was able to get a 3/8 socket onto the bolt and try to turn it with a vise grip, but it seems the clutch wheel turns and I lose torque as the entire wash tub wobbles while I try to loosen the bolt. The inside of the washer looks brand new on every surface so I did not expect any corrosion. I am getting ready to give up and call a service tech in, but thought I would take a shot to see if you had any suggestions.
Thank you so much for your excellent forum. I am sure if I can get the clutch wheel removed and get at that bearing, I can clean it up and hopefully that will fix things. I get the exact spin cycle interruption, dC and uC errors. My wife is ready to buy another washer, but I am not giving up yet!
Nick
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Hey Nick,“”I cannot get my socket wrench in there well enough, but was able to get a 3/8 socket onto the bolt and try to turn it with a vise grip, but it seems the clutch wheel turns and I lose torque as the entire wash tub wobbles while I try to loosen the bolt.“”Yep it’s a tight fit to get that 3/8” socket in there at floor level. First time I removed the clutch pulley I did it at floor level. If you lay the washer on its back and blocked up to protect the drain line you may have a bit more control to seat the 3/8” socket on the clutch pulley bolt. The bolt is standard thread if you seat the socket wrench on the bolt at the 3:00 position and pull toward you while holding the clutch pulley with your other hand it should break loose with reasonable force/torque. Don’t over torque the bolt in another post different forum I believe an owner sheared off that bolt and game over.Once you have that Clutch Pulley removed and opened up you can inspect. If what I call the spinner shaft coupler is not rusted in and seized to the One-Way bearing mounted in the Clutch Pulley you might get away with cleaning up that bearing and get back into service for a while. Real fix is the Outer Tub rebuild to at least replace the Tub Seal which is the root cause of the wash water leak contaminating the One-Way bearing.Take a look at this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement 1 2 3 ... Last Page)You can do a search on my past post (see Pic) for other FAV6800A/FAV9800A issues. DIY the machine back into service s not for everyone but if you can deal with some down time you may save the machine with some effort and I recommend parted out parts to save big $. I have extra control boards consoles, motor, drain pump, tranny and spinner support all for pennies on the dollar. New bearings, Tub Seal and O-Ring and Clutch Pulley when doing a rebuild. Good Luck.........Dick dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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If I could butt in on the clutch bolt issue, if you have a 1/4 inch ratchet with socket try that on the bolt. A 1/4 inch breakover will also work. They are not as thick as the 3/8 ratchet and are really handy for small work.
I have learned a lot from the forum on the Maytag Neptune TL.
Thanks,
James
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Originally Posted by: xlabtech If I could butt in on the clutch bolt issue, if you have a 1/4 inch ratchet with socket try that on the bolt. A 1/4 inch breakover will also work. They are not as thick as the 3/8 ratchet and are really handy for small work.
I have learned a lot from the forum on the Maytag Neptune TL.
Thanks,
James Good response James with the 1/4" ratchet/breakover. Maytag eng. did not leave a lot of room in there.......Dick
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I dont know if I am reading your post wrong but I think you are trying to remove the clutch bolt by applying force in the wrong direction. If you were looking at the bolt from the underside you would need to unscrew it by turning it CCW, not CW. Hope you didn't break it by applying too much force.
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Originally Posted by: thorning I dont know if I am reading your post wrong but I think you are trying to remove the clutch bolt by applying force in the wrong direction. If you were looking at the bolt from the underside you would need to unscrew it by turning it CCW, not CW. Hope you didn't break it by applying too much force. Thorning you are correct CCW rotation I corrected the error in Step 1 page 1 of this thread. "" The bolt is standard thread if you seat the socket wrench on the bolt at the 3:00 position and pull toward you while holding the clutch pulley with your other hand it should break loose with reasonable force/torque. Don’t over torque the bolt in another post different forum I believe an owner sheared off that bolt and game over."" (he did easy out the sheared off bolt)That is CCW for bolt rotation (standard thread) to back out the 3/8" clutch pulley bolt. I mention placing the 3/8" socket/wrench in the 3:00 [FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']o’clock position [/FONT]on the bolt head. That would place the socket wrench handel end facing the right side panel then pulling toward you, CCW rotation (viewed if your facing the bolt from underneath the machine) standard thread to back out. I mention reasonable torque to remove like the SM states on page 18; 96 inch pounds. Again thank you for the catch and I hope I did not cause anyone grief. If you see other errors please jump in and please post any suggestions to improve the fix, Dick
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Bought a dryer and the Maytag Neptune FAV9800 washer came for free with it; the seller said the washer didn't work and pointed me to this site as matching the symptoms.
I have to say without your posts I would not have had a clue how to fix the problem. But I just ran a test load and...success. Thanks to you and to gowest for posting the problem in the first place. R. Frank
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Originally Posted by: rfrank Bought a dryer and the Maytag Neptune FAV9800 washer came for free with it; the seller said the washer didn't work and pointed me to this site as matching the symptoms.
I have to say without your posts I would not have had a clue how to fix the problem. But I just ran a test load and...success. Thanks to you and to gowest for posting the problem in the first place. R. Frank Good deal R. Frank. you mention the FAV9800A model that's the LCD console flavor of the machine. Not to many folks post with FAV9800A (LCD) console issues. If that LCD display ever fails I feel from looking at and tracing thru the wiring harness that LCD console can be directly swapped out to the LED Console. Keep that in mind down the road. Everything in the machine can be repaired by the handy DIY owner if there is interest in saving the machine. I have a few other post on machine issues type in dh1200s in the search box at the top of the page. I'm sure other forum members will jump in for support. Good luck with your machine.............Dick
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Hey guys. I've been checking this thread for a while now. We got a used Neptune off of Craigslist a while back. It worked for a while and then started getting error codes. I can't seem to add my post properly, so I'm uploading it as a TXT file. Thanks!
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