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I removed the clutch pulley bolt and belt fine, now how does the clutch actually come off? Should it just slide down with some rocking/prying motion? Or do I need to remove the 6 bolts mounting the tranny and tub also?
I have only got 4 of them off so far after 3 hours of using socket, extension, wd-40, cordless impact and even tried a mixing drill for high torque. I have secured the tub from spinning using an extension as per SM.
Only thing left to try is hauling compressor to basement for even more impact. What am I missing here? Everyone else had so much success?
I found $8.34 in the tub so far. ($1 & $2 coins in Canada)
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Well, I've now replace the motor control board... Didn't work ! I've replaced the Main Board on top! Nada! So when I run the QUICK WASH, it still stalls at the 24 Minute mark. I hear a single little click and it just does not continue. Should I part it out or could it be the clutch lastly? Please help!
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Originally Posted by: cabinets_direct Well, I've now replace the motor control board... Didn't work ! I've replaced the Main Board on top! Nada! So when I run the QUICK WASH, it still stalls at the 24 Minute mark. I hear a single little click and it just does not continue. Should I part it out or could it be the clutch lastly? Please help! Sorry to hear the upper control board did not fix your timer problem. The clutch is not related to this problem.
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Originally Posted by: listen_to_STAX I removed the clutch pulley bolt and belt fine, now how does the clutch actually come off? Should it just slide down with some rocking/prying motion? Or do I need to remove the 6 bolts mounting the tranny and tub also?
I have only got 4 of them off so far after 3 hours of using socket, extension, wd-40, cordless impact and even tried a mixing drill for high torque. I have secured the tub from spinning using an extension as per SM.
Only thing left to try is hauling compressor to basement for even more impact. What am I missing here? Everyone else had so much success?
I found $8.34 in the tub so far. ($1 & $2 coins in Canada) The clutch must be rusted on the input shaft pretty good! Gentle prying and tapping may break the rust loose and let the clutch come off the input shaft. As far as the tranny bolts, do not use an impact gun. The bolts are soft, and shear very easy. The broken off piece is usually so corroded that you can not extraxct the broke piece out of the housing. Best to try soaking with a rust buster type spray and let it all soak overnight. Rocking the bolt in and out of the housing until it binds, spray more spray, center bolt in its travel and let it sit some more. Try again, repeat until the bolt comes out or breaks off.
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Thanks! Ill just part it out and get a new simple one, Appreciate your efforts.
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I am trying to remove Pulley from Maytag FAV6800aww. I followed the instruction I removed the pulley bolt. The manual says that at this point I should be able to remove the pulley but I cannot. Is there something I need to press? Please help
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FWIW--- if there is a rust and corrosion problem in the area of the clutch or housing bolts there is a product you can usually get at a drug store that may help to get them loose. It is supposed to work better than penetrating oil or rust buster. It is called Oil of Wintergreen. I work on cars and motorcycles and this is mentioned by several people who say it works very well on rusted bolts and nuts on these . It may take a few applications but it is worth a try and it is not very expensive. Let everyone know if it works for you
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I just posted a message about a product called Oil of Wintergreen you may want to try .
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I just had the same problem as Johnatevw.
At first, I was getting the dc/uc codes, along with a clicking sound as it was trying to spin. Being pretty handy, also used to be a service tech for exercise equipment, I got out the troubleshooting guide and went through the troubleshooting guide flow chart. The diagnostic code was 05 - Continuous unbalanced circuit. After realizing that all circuits were working, I got out the laptop and found this site. After reading all of Dick's VERY helpful posts and advice, I, too, came to the conclusion that it must be the one-way bearing. I took the front cover off and removed the clutch and found the bearing to be in good working order. Further checking revealed a broken spring at the bend where the white tab inserts. I bent the end of the spring around a small screwdriver shaft and inserted it back into the slot. I cleaned and lubed the bearing and movable parts while I had it disassembled. It's now in working order again. I left the front cover off and am running a load of clothes now. I wanted to watch it in action to make sure it's working correctly. I have to say, this is the first problem we've had with this machine, 6800 TL, and we bought it in Feb of 2005. We have the matching dryer, and we can't complain about it. Well, the only complaint really is when I wash a load that has long johns in it, as it wrings those things up into knots. But other than that, I can't complain. Oh, and we have 4 kids, and I do about 9-13 loads a week! Thanks again Dick for supporting us DIYers!
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We also have a Neptune top load model washer and so far in all the time we have had it not a sngle problem. It is about 7 years old and we run about 7 or 8 loads a week. As others have mentioned it will occasionally put some clothing in knots but it never tears them. I hope it keeps going another 7 plus years but I doubt it will based on other reports
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