As for age, it came with the house. Think I'm beginning to understand why they left it. Other than the water being HOT all the time, it's a nice stainless washer.

Okay, so even in the COLD/COLD setting NON ATC the ATC light is on and the water is very warm. To test if hot water getting to washer on the cold setting, I turned off the hot supply entirely. ran a test fill and it was very cold. then i began to turn the hot back on and the test water got hot/very warm. not as hot as hot only, but very warm, way over 100 degrees.

What do you think it could most likely be and what fix would you recommend?

since both hot and cold flow freely, I don't think it's a valve problem. Is there a controller or something that sounds like the problem? Especially how the ATC light is always on.

Thanks in advance!! You might just save my marriage :-)

Thanks sidfink43.

What part would the temperature control switch be?

AP4026829 - $50

Then if that didn't fix it I should try replacing the temp control board? - AP4028021 - $105

So looking at the diagram, it appears this is a fairly simple to access fix. unscrew the control panel using the screws on the top rear and I get access to the back side of the control panel?

I appreciate the $0 workaround and believe me if it were just me I'd drop in some easy access quarter-turn shut off valves but since my better half is involved I'll opt to invest $100 to do it right.

Thanks again!

Okay, so AP4026829 (temp control switch) arrived today, I installed it and the problem hasn't gone away.

Guessing my next step is to replace the temp control board AP4028021? --- could a bad board cause the ATC light to NEVER go off? Or is there something just for the ATC that would cause this? Or is it one in the same?

Thanks

Okay, so I dug back into the control panel yesterday, and pulled out the old temp control board and replaced it with the one I had ordered AP4028021.

Same result. Not fixed. On COLD/COLD the ATC light is still on and mixed hot and cold comes out during the fill.

I also put the old (but working) switch back in while I was under the hood. A little worried I might damage the new board trying to remove it and replace with new so I think I will leave it since it could decide to go out any day anyway - not sure how much more prying those plastic pins that hold the board in place are going to take either.

So what's the next and hopefully final option? I'm guessing it has something to do with a malfunction in a mixing valve? What is involved to make this repair? Is it a couple of screws on a back access panel, or more involved? The control panel was pretty easy to access, I'm thinking the next set of suggestions won't be so easy.

Thanks for your expertise and continued patience.

Okay, so the valve assembly suggested is scheduled to arrive today - Sure hope this is the fix I've been looking for.

I've done some searching as to how to access this area to replace it and I'm a bit confused. You say front panel, but what I've read says top panel first on this model. Something like, insert a putty knife to release some springs in the top front and lift up the top panel. Does that sound right for the Maytag Atlantis model MAV7650AWW? I'm assuming I should also go ahead and remove the control panel beforehand (unscrew back, tilt forward, lift up and unplug the wiring harness from the bottom half of the washer?) This seems like it would then allow the top to lift off completely to access the internals to swap out the valve right? Thanks for your expertise, I just want to make sure I have the right plan before I start taking things apart.

Thanks again for ALL of your help.