Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
The fridge was working fine and then the light went out, the ice dispenser stopped working, it stopped making ice, the fridge got warm and the freezer is not as cold as it should be. It is empty now and I tried unplugging it, letting it sit and then plugging it back in. The freezer started to get cold but nothing else worked. I believe it might be electrical but am not very savy about refrigerator repairs.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
What is running, freezer fan, condensing fan. Pull the back off the refrigerator and check to see if the compressor is running or just hot.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
|
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Evaporator fan is running, freezer fan is not, compressor gets hot, freezer still gets cold
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
You will need a volt meter to check things. Seems like you have lost voltage to the freezaer fan motor. If no meter, you can remove the freezer back panel and check for a loose wire, or you can check the door switch, sometimes they go bad, but not too often.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
As richappy said a meter will make this much easier.SEE BELOW.
By freezer fan I assume you mean the compressor/condenser fan.
Check for 115 volts AC at the fan's connector.
If it is there the fan is shot.
You did not say which light went out.
The light going out may just be a coincidence, check the bulb for continuity as the circuits for the fan and the light seem separate.
I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
