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Our dishwasher a few months ago stopped draining. We noticed that there was water left in the wash tub after the cycle was complete. I have ensured that there is no blockage in the drain tube, we don't have a drain line check valve installed, and I have replaced the control board. Now, the "clean" LED blinks seven times cyclically. I.E. It will blink 7 times, pause, blink 7 times, pause, blink 7 times, etc....... And it doesn't work in any way shape or form. It is stuck...I have cycled the power to the machine, and it still does this.
What in the hell is going on with my dishwasher?
I have the drain pump uninstalled, along with the pressure switch that is just downstream of the drain pump.
Help...Please
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,277
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Joined: 7/29/2007(UTC) Posts: 3
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the drain selanoid is shot. you can get one at home depot.
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Rank: Member
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:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: Okay, so I think I got the diagnostics cycle to run. I ran it once, and then the Clean LED stopped blinking. So I ran the normal wash cycle. The Clean LED cycles yet again.
Why did these A-holes have to put this new circuit in the new control boards? Does this mean I have a heating element going bad or something now? Should I stop messing with this pile of junk dishwasher? My fiance is starting to get pissed off.
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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P.S.
There is no drain solenoid on my machine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,277
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Originally Posted by: mpj680 :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: Okay, so I think I got the diagnostics cycle to run. I ran it once, and then the Clean LED stopped blinking. So I ran the normal wash cycle. The Clean LED cycles yet again.
Why did these A-holes have to put this new circuit in the new control boards? Does this mean I have a heating element going bad or something now? Should I stop messing with this pile of junk dishwasher? My fiance is starting to get pissed off.
Thanks. The heating element is ether bad or good, there is no such thing as "going bad". To check the heating element you will have to ohm it out with a meter. It will check good or be open. If you don't have a meter you can pull it out and take it to a repair shop. Any appliance repair shop should easily be able to check it for you. If the element is bad replace it. If the element is good check for bad connections. If all checks good replace the control board.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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mpj68 In order to check the heater you have to remove the dishwasher from the cabinet to get the access to the heater terminals. Remove the power to the dishwasher first. Do not unscrew the plastic nuts holding the heater. If you'll do it then you must to replace the heater, otherwise it could be a water leak. Remove the wires from the heater terminals and check the resistance across the terminals. It suppose to be between 10 Ohms to 35 Ohms. If your meter reads a different resistance the heater should be replaced. The part number for the new heater is AP3884745 If the heater is fine then you have to check the hi limit thermostat which is wired in series with the heater. It looks like a small tablet with two terminals and is attached to the bottom of the dishwasher on the right side (from the face). If it is open then it has to be replaced. The part number for the new hi limit thermostat is AP3010530 For your references here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dishwasher Model GU1200XTLQ1 Good luck. Gene.
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