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Hi All, I'm hoping this thread is still being watched. I just moved into my 1st home. My Kitchen Aid, KSRG22FKBL03, ice maker isn't making ice. The optics seem to pass the test... 2 flashes , then steady when the flapper is closed.
Jumping T and H at the IM yields no activity. I find 35 volts at N and L. Removing the ice maker finds only 35 v at the connector coming to the ice maker.
Could there be some issue with the optics resulting in passing the test but only sending 35v? Do I need to do more diagnostics?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
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Hello Dave. I really believe you have another issue causing the voltage drop to your ice maker. I need to know if anything else on this appliance is giving any problems. Every time I've seen a voltage drop like this a light is out or dim or blows frequently, etc..... I hope I can help you find your problem!
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Rank: Member
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Hi Jerry, Thanks for your interest. I don't have any bulbs out or dim. My other features seem to be working well.
I found another post in this forum with similar symptoms. The owner was prompted to short pins 3 and 4 at the emitter plug and check the voltage at the ice maker points L and N. I did this and found the correct 110v. The suggestion in the other post was that something else on the emitter board was failing and to try new boards. I've ordered them and they should arrive today. I'll post my results.
Dave
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Well, my replacement boards failed to fix my ice maker. I saw these instructions... "First step: remove the white cover from the front of the ice maker assembly. It snaps on but you may have to use a screwdriver in the slots at the bottom of it to get it off. I would put a test meter set to ac voltage on the water valve connections behind the unit so when it cycles, you can tell if your getting the 120Vac to the valve.(If you keep the valve connected during this test you can avoid cycling the ice maker an additional time). Also for reference purposes, the ice maker valve is the one that the water line from the bottom of it goes up the back of the refrigerator. Now you need a piece of wire with insulation on it, stripped on both ends. Jump from "T" to "H" keeping in mind that this is 120Vac that your jumping the thermostat with in order to force a cycle,(don't get shocked!). The cycle will take approximately 3 minutes at the end of which, the ice maker should fill. During this time, watch the test meter. You should see 120Vac reading to it for 7 to 9 seconds. If you don't, the ice maker isn't passing the voltage and the ice maker motor module requires replacement. If you do see the voltage, the water valve is in need of replacement. Jumping "N" to "V" should cause the water valve to open. Just be sure to work cautiously to avoid personal injury and I hope you find this information useful."
I tried jumping T - H and go no activity. I also tried jumping N - V and got no water.
I hate to just throw parts at it. Any other ideas?
Dave
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Hello Dave. When I posted my instructions, I didn't realize your unit had the optics so everything I told you has to be done with the emitter bypassed as you were instructed by the other post you had read. If the ice maker cycles and fills with water with the emitter bypassed, the optics are at fault. I'm sending you a wiring diagram as an attachment to this reply. I hope this helps to end your issues!
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Rank: Member
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Hi Jerry, My most recent post was after installing brand new optics boards. I suppose they could be faulty from the factory.
Should I still try bypassing them?
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Hello Dave. Yes, you need to try with the optics bypassed and the door switch taped down. The only way to pin the problem down is to eliminate what isn't the problem. These units are kind of temperamental any way, pertaining to ice maker cycling. The thing I'm most interested in at this point is if the water valve dispenses water when prompted. If this doesn't happen, we will need to check out the electronic defrost control as it has circuitry pertaining to water dispensing. Let me know!........Also please note the attachment. It is the wiring diagram for your exact model.
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Rank: Member
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New data ;-)
I bypassed the optics, and taped down the door switch.
I have 120v at T - H and there is continuity there.
Jumping T - H = no cycle.
Jumping N - V = no water, 120v not present.
Extra credit... Jumping V - M = motor turns one revolution / jump.
I hope this is helpful information.
Dave
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Hello Dave. I think with this information the icemaker is bad. I don't think you have replaced it as I look back through your posts, but your getting proper voltage to the icemaker and it's not responding properly. Remember, we will refund for a part for a year so if it doesn't fix it, it still doesn't cost anything but the shipping. Please let me know! Good luck!
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Rank: Member
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Thanks Jerry, I'll order it and post back.
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