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Joined: 3/5/2012(UTC) Posts: 7
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Well, the new icemaker took care of the issue. Thanks for the help. It's nice having automatic ice. I've grown too lazy to use the trays. ;-)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Guests
Joined: 12/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 0
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We're always happy to help Dave. Have a great day!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/23/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: Jerry / APP Team Hello Dave. I think with this information the icemaker is bad. I don't think you have replaced it as I look back through your posts, but your getting proper voltage to the icemaker and it's not responding properly. Remember, we will refund for a part for a year so if it doesn't fix it, it still doesn't cost anything but the shipping. Please let me know! Good luck! Jerry, perhaps I missed something here but did the new board solve the 35 volt problem? I've actually got 33.5. Optics checked good. Jumped T and H with no success so I pulled the icemaker and the black wire in the Molex connector coming out of the cabinet wall has 33.5vac. Green/Yellow is a good ground and white checks as the common. I know tan is the fill valve wire and should have no input voltage from the connector. Where does the 120vac to the Molex connector black wire come from. It looks like an output from the receiver board according to the wiring diagram. Is there a connector at that board which could have resistance in it or can I just measure the appropriate pin on that board for the correct voltage? I'm flying blind without a voltage value and pinout diagram. Thanks.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Guests
Joined: 12/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 0
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Hello Patrick. If you could provide me with the model number off of you unit I'll dig up the wiring diagram and we can check the output from the board. If the out put is there, it will have to be the harness, or a connector in the harness. If not, the board will fix your situation.
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