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beachguysb  
#31 Posted : Monday, February 20, 2012 3:36:29 PM(UTC)
beachguysb

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I ordered the optics board, but I still wonder - the only way I can make the red light go on with the door open is to touch/push the ice in the back of the icemaker tray. If I just open and close the door without doing that the light stays off.

I wonder what it is I'm doing that can get the light to go back on - it doesn't stay on a long time, and very rarely does ice actually drop to the bucket.
Gene  
#32 Posted : Monday, February 20, 2012 3:48:46 PM(UTC)
Gene

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One of possibilities is a loose connection somewhere. Install the new boards and we will go from there.

Gene.
beachguysb  
#33 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 4:04:16 PM(UTC)
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I replaced the board and it's not any better (at least so far).

When I first turned on the frig after replacing the board, the lights blinked for a few seconds and then went off. Here is what happens now:

Flap is out (optics path blocked): no light
Flap pushed in (optics path clear): no light
Push up on the freezer door switch: blinks every second.

According to the diagnostics this almost sounds like 'harvest' mode except when I push in the optics flap, the light is still off. (Is harvest mode just before it ejects the ice to the bin?)

OK - it just ejected the ice into the bin. Then I could hear water going into the maker. But now there are still no lights on from the optics board.

As I mentioned before, it seems like sometimes I can make the lights go on by fiddling with the icemaker - by pushing my fingers down on top of the ice that just sits in the back of the tray - the ice sits for 10 hours or maybe more before ejecting.

I don't think the problem is that it isn't freezing the ice, as it freezes pretty fast, and then just sits in the maker for 10 hours or more.

Sometimes the red light will automatically go on by itself for a few minutes, but then go off again.

Oh - now 10 minutes later the red light is back on (with new optics board). After the water fills the tray, does it take about 5-10 minutes before the red light is supposed to go back on? If so, maybe it's fixed? How long should it take for the next batch to eject?
Gene  
#34 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 4:53:08 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: beachguysb Go to Quoted Post
...I replaced the board...


Just to confirm. Did you replace both boards or just one?

Gene.
beachguysb  
#35 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 4:57:50 PM(UTC)
beachguysb

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It came with 2 pieces - we put one on the left side and one on the right side.
Gene  
#36 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 5:34:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: beachguysb Go to Quoted Post
...How long should it take for the next batch to eject?...


It depends on the temperature in the freezer. This time can vary between one to three hours. The ice production could stop completely if the temperature is 15°F or above.

Gene.
beachguysb  
#37 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:11:34 PM(UTC)
beachguysb

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OK - it's been over 2 hours, and the ice is always where it is when the light goes off. The white plastic prongs are down under in the front, and the ice in back looks/feels like it's ready to be ejected. But the light just stays off and nothing happens at all for maybe 10 hours usually?

Again, though, i can fiddle with the icemaker - pushing on the ice cubes in the tray and often I can get the light to come back on by doing that.

The ice freezes fairly quickly so I don't think that could be the problem. And everything in the freezer is solid frozen.
beachguysb  
#38 Posted : Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:54:26 PM(UTC)
beachguysb

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Now an hour later the light went back on by itself but still no ice coming out. So during a single cycle, the light is sometimes on and sometimes off.
beachguysb  
#39 Posted : Wednesday, February 22, 2012 5:56:31 AM(UTC)
beachguysb

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This morning I was able to crack the top layer of an ice cube in the back of the tray

so I bought a thermometer and it shows the freezer at -2 degrees, so that's fine.

And as I said, sometimes the new optic light is working correctly, but sometimes it's completely off. What should I do now?
Gene  
#40 Posted : Wednesday, February 22, 2012 1:48:56 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Remove the ice maker head cover. Make sure the optic beam is clear. Check for 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" check points. The meter probes should go in at least 1/2".

If the voltage reading is correct then the ice maker itself is bad.

If the voltage reading is incorrect, carefully check for 120 VAC between the blue/yellow (pin 1) & white wires (pin4) connected to the emitter board (on the right side) and the blue/yellow (pin 3) & white (pin 8) connected to the receiver board. Optic beam condition does not matter.

Post the results.

Gene.
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