Like everyone else on here with a electric dryer issue, mine doesn't heat either. I'm pretty handy, even being a woman, so I pulled the heating element to bring to the appliance parts guy to check it just in case. I had already replaced this unit about 1-1 1/2 yrs ago. He tested everything and it wasn't that. Even hooked it up to an outlet and it heated up. He gave me a new fuse to try. After getting to the old fuse, I installed the new one, put everything back together, and still no heat.
The dryer tumbles, no heat just cold air. I called the parts guy back to tell him that wasn't it either. He said something on the harness block probably needs to be replaced but I couldn't do that myself and to call someone. He maybe underestimating my abilities or he may be dead on.
I also tried flipping the 2 breaker switches to make sure they didn't trip and just didn't register. Still nothing...

Here are your parts
Model GEQ9800PW2

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208541831.pdf

All devices along the heating circuit (bottom of diagram) must be closed for you to get heat. Also the motor's centrifugal switch must close but they are fairly reliable, check the other items first

It may be time for you to move up a notch i9n your DIYer skills
I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.