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dh1200s  
#81 Posted : Monday, January 16, 2012 7:23:21 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Joe,

Yep the design leaves a lot to be desired. This is the only washer I ever spent any time on, give it a try. I too felt the the tranny O-ring was a bit of a concern to prevent wash water from passing down thru the Spinner Support taking out the original 6002DU ball and SCE-910 caged bearings and adding to the failure of the Clutch mounted One-Way bearing.

If your machine used the Upper One-Way Bearing ring and that was contaminated then I feel the Tub Seal was the root cause of that failure as well as contamination of the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing.

Good luck..........Dick
Cadiblk  
#82 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 4:43:20 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Dick et al

This morning my maytag Neptune FAV6800A ( series 12) started giving the dc code. I read the wonderful posts on this website and viewed all of the informative pictures, service manuals, etc.

I then called my local Maytag store who told me that it most likely could not be fixed, but that they would credit a portion of the service fee $79 an hour to a new washing machine.

I set about tearing the washing machine apart, removing the clutch ( which looked brand new still), cleaning the bearings, and replacing them with grease. I originally put way too much grease in and the shaft would spin in both directions. I cleaned it out some more and ultimately obtained a true one way movement consistently.

I cleaned all the disgusting parts ( unbelievable how much sludge was in there) so they all looked like new, and put it together. I ran a small load, with my fingers crossed, and it proceeded through the max extract spin cycle with no problems.

I want to thank all of you who have posted questions and responses to this thread. They have helped me, and hopefully others, fix a problem with zero dollars spent. In fact I fond $.97 in the bottom of the machine so I came out ahead! I cannot believe how everything has become so disposable and how Maytag expected me to throw a $1000 machine away.

I can't thank everyone enough. Thank you!!!!!
dh1200s  
#83 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 7:30:41 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Cadiblk,

A lot of folks throw the machine away.....watch for them. This will be a temp fix watch for signs of wash water on the Clutch Pulley down the road. Take a read of this thread for a possible Outer Tub rebuild down the road.........FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing

Good luck and great job!

Dick
Cadiblk  
#84 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 8:35:06 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Thanks I did read the other post. I was debating on replacing the clutch and the bearings, but decided to stop when I didn't have the tool to take the bolt off.
DB App.  
#85 Posted : Wednesday, January 18, 2012 7:20:18 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jjrsad Go to Quoted Post
Dick, I have a question for you. From what I have seen on this issue and my own experience the water leak starts at the trans o-ring (have studied mine very close, have worked on washers for 20 years) . They secure the trans to the tub hub using 4 bolts. The plastic trans will flex under some hard agitating causing the oring to leak alittle each time. I have come across this in other applications and can tell you its not the best design. What if you put some rubber sealer on both sides of the trans oring? Not silicone it will not stay. I would use a gutter sealant that is flexable when dry, repells water, can expand and retract, and seals under water. If it is clean it sticks very well. An oring will only seal on a smooth and flat surfaces. I would like to hear back from you on this it could save alot of labor and aggrevation.
Thanks Joe


I did use a product called Gaskacinch on my O-ring during reassembly. This sealer is available from most motorcycle shops or Edelbrock. It is a rubberized sealant that remains flexible and filled the minor casting imperfections on my spinner assembly. This product reminds me of the old rubber cement used in grade scool 50 years ago.:eek: It is also very easy to clean up if a second repair should be needed in the future.:)

Dave
dh1200s  
#86 Posted : Wednesday, January 18, 2012 7:57:24 AM(UTC)
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Dave, Joe,

Excellent feedback with the extra O-Ring sealant protection.

I will add that step on my next tear down/repair…….Dick
Cadiblk  
#87 Posted : Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:26:34 PM(UTC)
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Dick

I just had another issue arise with my washer. I am now getting a lot of banging from the tub. I removed the front panel and ran a cycle. The tub is banging when the agitators are spinning and almost always when there are clothes and water in the tub. I say almost always because the tub started to sway during the final agitator spin immediately after the high speed tub spin. The weird thing is that the tub doesn't bang when only the tub is spinning and it spins at max extract without a problem.

I was thinking the struts are bad and can't handle the extra weight of the water in the tub causing the tub to be off balance and bang.

Do you agree with this? The struts look like they are $100 and I want to be fairly sure that is the problem before spending the money.

Thanks again for all the help.
dh1200s  
#88 Posted : Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:51:54 PM(UTC)
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""The tub is banging when the agitators are spinning""

From what you describe this is happening duing the wash cycle is the wash basket rotating CW with tumblers rotating? Raise the washer top from the washer base while you have the front panel off and observe if the wash basket rotating CW while running a wash cycle (Clutch Pulley rotating CW).

If so I feel the One-Way bearing is seized in the Clutch Pulley. When you go into Spin Cycle or any CCW rotation of the Clutch Pulley that One-Way bearing locks up (to spin the wash basket CCW/spin cycle) as you have seen in your past tear down/relube of the Clutch Pulley Mounted One-Way bearing.

Pull the Clutch Pulley and inspect the One-Way bearing mounted in the Clutch pulley..........you may find that it is rusted up. Does your series machine use the Upper One-Way bearing ring?

You may be ready for a Outer Tub rebuild........see this post; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement

See the early part of this post on how to check the struts.........Dick
Cadiblk  
#89 Posted : Thursday, April 26, 2012 6:46:38 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Dick

I am experiencing the banging when the machine is rotating CW and the agitators are spinning. CCW I do not experience any banging. If I remember from my previous tear down there was only one bearing. I have a FAV6800AWQ with serial number beginning in 1227.

Thanks again for all the help.
dh1200s  
#90 Posted : Friday, April 27, 2012 5:01:40 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Originally Posted by: Cadiblk Go to Quoted Post
Dick

I am experiencing the banging when the machine is rotating CW and the agitators are spinning. CCW I do not experience any banging. If I remember from my previous tear down there was only one bearing. I have a FAV6800AWQ with serial number beginning in 1227.

Thanks again for all the help.


Your series is 12 the 1st two digits of the S/N.

OK did you raise the washer top from the washer base while the machine is in the wash cycle (Clutch Pulley rotation CW) and check to see if the Wash Basket is rotating CW. The wash basket should never …..ever…..rotate CW only CCW the Spin direction.

If that is happening (Wash Basket is rotating CW) then the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing is seized completely or partially seized and the wash basket attached to the Spinner Support is rotating in the Outer Tub bearings during the wash/agitate cycle.

I feel in this condition you can probably rotate the wash basket CW by hand. Raise the washer lid and see if you can rotate the Wash Basket CW. The Wash Basket should only rotate CCW the Spin direction by hand.

It’s time to drop the Clutch Pulley again and inspect……….Dick
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