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Need help troubleshooting Kitchenaid continuously running banging
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Joined: 11/14/2011(UTC)
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Gene, I tested the yellow wires going from upper limit and start with the neutral. The digital reading is .8 from upper limit and .9 from start wire. According to schematic it says this test should read 3-5 ohms. What does this mean.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 27
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Is it possible the switch is bad eventhough continuity yeast checks out? I mean I took the top off to watch it.cycle and It's hitting the. Upper limit metal tab and not shopping. I've checked and it us fully engaged.
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Originally Posted by: frank the tank  #14 was rechecked with wires off. I get a reading then when button is depressed reading is no more... Frank, This switch is normally open what means the correct resistance reading while the switch button is not depressed should be infinite. The correct reading with the button depressed should be closed to 0 Ohms. Looks like this switch is the culprit. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/14/2011(UTC)
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You must have misunderstood my statement. I get infinite then when i press the button it goes to 0. What i believe.. and I am not holding my breath on this one.... is that there is a short in one of the wires connected to the start switch. I get a .9 reading on the wire whn according to the manual should be 3-5. It makes sense in that the Compactor did not start by itself all the time as it is now. I'm believing the wire was shouting occasionally. When i replaced the centrifugal switch I must have pulled on the wire and made the short worse and thus causing the constant start when the drawer is pushed in. I checked and the button isn't even being activated yet the cycle starts. Will ck tomorrow and update everyone.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You have been a member since:: 7/19/2007(UTC)
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According to the Tech sheet (attached to the reply) the test you described as Quote:
... I tested the yellow wires going from upper limit and start with the neutral. The digital reading is .8 from upper limit and .9 from start wire. According to schematic it says this test should read 3-5 ohms... is testing the motor run winding. Per this result the motor run winding is shorted and the motor should not run, but per your previous post it does run. All these results are very confusing. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/14/2011(UTC)
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Your telling me... I had an ekectrician friend come over today and he was at a loss too. Is it possible the door safety switch can cause the unit to start cycling if it was defective? I believe the cycle starts as soon as that is depressed by the drawer. I noticed this was occurring when the drawer wasn't closed far enough to hit the start button. Just curious.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
You have been a member since:: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
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Originally Posted by: frank the tank ...I believe the cycle starts as soon as that is depressed by the drawer... No. That switch has to be depressed by the pedal by moving the pedal up. Would it start by itself (the drawer is in) if the "On-Off" switch on the control panel is in "Off" position? Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Gene when i push the drawer in but not closed or even itching the start button it will operate. I was thinking of the switch inside that gets depressed when the drawer is pushed in. The unit will not operate if It's turned off.. so I got that going for me.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/14/2011(UTC)
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Today I took it apart for the umpteenth time.......
I checked that drawer safety switch. I pressed it in and the ram started going up and down near the top. There was blue flashing inside the switch and after a few it stopped and I smelled the electric wire burn smell. I rechecked the switch and get no reading. When the switch is activated I get a reading. ????????????????
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
You have been a member since:: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Need help troubleshooting Kitchenaid continuously running banging
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