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jmrec100  
#11 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2009 3:22:14 PM(UTC)
jmrec100

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How do you post pictures here?
Admin / APP Team  
#12 Posted : Monday, February 2, 2009 9:35:51 AM(UTC)
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Click on the "Quick Reply" button as you would normally do to create a post. Then click on the "Go Advanced" button right below the reply box. The Advanced menu has an "Attachment" button that can be used to attach and post a picture.

Hope this helps.
jmrec100  
#13 Posted : Monday, February 2, 2009 11:28:47 PM(UTC)
jmrec100

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Thanks for the info on the advanced function.
I received the new igniter today. Before installing it, I measured the ohm/resistance. It measured 135 ohms. The old one measured zero ohms so I know the one I replaced was no good. Is 135 ohms good?
Anyway, I installed the new one. Put all the sheet metal back on. I did it the hard way when getting to the igniter and removed all the lower sheet metal. Didn't realize I just had to remove the top lower panel. Oh well, had fun. I turned on the oven, and waited for that wonderful glow. One minute,... then 2 minutes. No glow.
So now it means I am not getting voltage to the gas valve for sure? What do I check next?
I opened up the top control panel and looked at the Board. Didn't see any real tell tale signs of being burned? Could one of the relays be bad. What do I check on the baord for oven?
Gene  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, February 3, 2009 12:45:51 PM(UTC)
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How did you connect the new igniter wires? Which wire where, step by step?

The igniter should be good unless you did damage the coil, which is very fragile, during the installation. I would recommend to check the igniter for continuity again. You can easy do it without removing the igniter. Just remove the bottom drawer.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:16:15 AM(UTC)
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Spliced the wires into the same connections as the old igniter. Only 2 wires and the ends each have different connector type. Did all that. I checked the continuity after I installed it to be sure I did not damage it. I was careful. Same 135 ohms when I tested it straight from the box I received it in. I tried the oven, waited and nothing. Removed the wires and checked continuity again in place. Same 135 ohms. I will connect up an ammeter in line to the igniter again and check for amperage. I think maybe in the oven control PCB there may be a problem. I will look at the PC Board closer this weekend and see if I can trace voltage output. May even be in the knob control? It is just a potentiometer/resistor? I doubt its there because I would expect it to work at some settings and not at others. And the broil to not work at all if the oven knob was bad. Seems my options are the PC Board or the gas valve. I noticed there were relays on the PCB. Maybe a bad relay?
I again measured voltage at the two lower connections on the gas valve. Read same 7.7 volts before turning on the oven. Read 8.X volts after the knob was turned on. I tried several positions (oven knob) and same voltage. No change. Turn to off, and voltage drops to 7.X volts.
Is there a transformer or something on the PCB or somewhere else? I thought it was straight 120 volts to the gas valve?
Gene  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:29:08 AM(UTC)
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Disconnect the igniter wires and measure the voltage across these wires wile the control calls for Bake. Post the results.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:42:57 AM(UTC)
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I did that on oven bake setting. Same result. I should have clarified it. I disconnected at the igniter, hooked up my meter to these wires from the oven leading to these igniter wires to measure voltage. Same result

Do I check it on broil too? I thought it was a different setup for broil?
Gene  
#18 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 12:08:56 PM(UTC)
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Disconnect the wires from the terminals on the Bake part of the gas valve and check for continuity across these terminals. Post the results.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#19 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 12:20:34 PM(UTC)
jmrec100

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The bake part. Let me be sure what that is. There are 4 terminals on the gas valve. There are the 2 top terminals , one has the blue wire and the other is the white. The white I assume is a neutral because it also is connected to the lower terminal. Then the one lead coming off the bottom connects to one lead of the ignitor. I assume that the top two wires connect across a coil in the gas valve that allows voltage/current to pass to the igniter and open the gas valve to flow gas.? Are you asking me to check the resistance in the lower 2 terminals or across the top two wires (coil)? I assume that the coil would energize and make a complete circuit thru to the ignitor.
Gene  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, February 4, 2009 12:37:40 PM(UTC)
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Follow the wire from the Bake igniter which goes to the gas valve. Disconnect this wire from the gas valve terminal and check for continuity between that terminal and the next to it. The other pair of terminals is for the Broil circuit.

Gene.
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