approx 2 weeks ago our dryer quit heating. i have tested the thermo fuse and the two fuses on the heating ele (i may have the terms wrong sorry) originally i found bad continuity on the heating element itself and have replaced it, i also replaced the two fuses from the element and the one above it and it still does not heat... i'm at the end of my rope please help!

Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER7646EQ2 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your wiring diagram.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
i also replaced the two fuses from the element and the one above it[/COLOR]
Not sure I understand the following. The parts breakdown only shows 2 parts near the element.
One is a thermal cut-off (fuse) and the other is a high limit thermostat, so I am not sure what the third device is.

Did you check the replacement parts with a meter before installing them?

Start by checking your power to the unit. The motor and timer run off of 120 volts but the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

Next unplug the unit. Set the timer to mid scale on a heating cycle and check across Timer switch 2. It should be 0 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.