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jmrec100  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2009 12:09:00 PM(UTC)
jmrec100

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I have a model 44XL. I followed some of the posts answers you supplied in trying to trouble shoot. The Oven does not work, but the Broiler does. And all the stove top burners work. The igniter for the oven bake doesn't glow at all. I hear the clicking at the knob. I checked amps at the Ignitor - NO current. Checked voltage at the gas valve load side to the ignitor. It reads 7. 2V before turning the knob on. Reads 8.8V after turning the knob. It should read 120V? I will have to look again but I believe the line side entering the gas valve does the same? Not sure on that. I will check the resistance reading thru the ignitor but I do not think that is it. I think it's probably line voltage into the valve is off. Is there a control board or is it thru the knob that the voltage is supplied? What should I suspect is the problem?
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 27, 2009 4:14:28 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jmrec100 Go to Quoted Post
...Checked voltage at the gas valve load side to the ignitor. It reads 7. 2V before turning the knob on. Reads 8.8V after turning the knob...


How did you do it? What is the complete model number of the range?

Gene.
jmrec100  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, January 27, 2009 5:38:27 PM(UTC)
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I disconnected the igniter leads, attached my meter to the two terminals exiting the gas valve and going to the igniter. One blue wire and the white wire(nuetral?). Then turned on the oven knob and the resulting voltage readings. I did measure the resistance across the igniter itself and it read 0 ohms. So chances are the igniter is bad. But is there a problem upstream getting voltage to the gas valve? Need to check it. The model number on the sticker on the right side of the oven reads: 317------- I will have to get the rest of the number because I am not at home.
looked at the PC Board for any signs of burn-out. Didn't see anything abnormal.
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 27, 2009 5:44:03 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Most likely the problem is a bad igniter. You had to disconnect or cut off the igniter wires and measure the voltage between these wires. The model number is probably behind the bottom drawer.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:29:41 PM(UTC)
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Model Number: JGBP26WEA5WW SN: VA205739P Made in Mexico.

I pulled the wires off the gas valve, put the leads at the terminals and measured for voltage. The igniter had terminal connectors on it which made it easy to disconnect from the gas valve Looking at the previous posts on this site, they mostly say something like cutting and wire nutting the wires together. Mine having terminals on it, does this mean it was reworked sometime?
Gene  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 11:25:40 AM(UTC)
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As far as I remember there suppose to be a plug on the left side panel where the igniter harness plugs in. If there is one then you have to unplug the igniter harness there and measure the voltage at this plug. Otherwise if you can post a pictures of all these wires and connections it might help.

Double check the model number you posted. "5" between "A" & "W" seams to be wrong.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 3:18:31 PM(UTC)
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Could be an "S" I suppose. Have to look later.
I measured right at the valve terminals. Should read the same. But the resitance in the Igniter, measured with it unplugged, measured zero. Suggests a short? I will replace the igniter to start due to the ohm reading .
Gene  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, January 28, 2009 5:02:13 PM(UTC)
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The part number for the igniter is AP2014008

Keep us posted.

Gene.
jmrec100  
#9 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:05:21 PM(UTC)
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I looked again. It is a 5. Looks like the same igniter part. I will order it.
Gene  
#10 Posted : Thursday, January 29, 2009 1:14:31 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Keep us posted.

Gene.
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