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Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis and repair with us. Your post was very illuminative and instructive.
Thanks again and good luck with your oven.
Gene.
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If your oven does not clean properly, connect a ground to the stove.
I know that the guy that gave me the information stated, "If the timer is not grounded, the oven won't clean properly." I grounded my new timer installation and every thing works as advertised.
Good Luck!!!
WGD
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Gene, this is an old post but i wondered if you can help.
I replaced a timer for my parents oven which is a jkp27god2bg
This oven has self clean on top and not the bottom. Do you think the jumper is supposed to be in the same position as described for self clean or non-clean. I left in the location for self clean and the upper oven will say that it is cleaning but doesnt get hot enough to do it. the latch light on the new timer never comes on and the door doesnt show locked when it gets hot enough. I grounded the board and checked the wiring compared to another post that showed the new and old timer wire locations and colors but the colors on this oven are not exactly the same. Do you have any other suggestions.
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You may want to check the door latch switches.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: jmkyle  Gene, this is an old post but i wondered if you can help.
I replaced a timer for my parents oven which is a jkp27god2bg
This oven has self clean on top and not the bottom. Do you think the jumper is supposed to be in the same position as described for self clean or non-clean. I left in the location for self clean and the upper oven will say that it is cleaning but doesnt get hot enough to do it. the latch light on the new timer never comes on and the door doesnt show locked when it gets hot enough. I grounded the board and checked the wiring compared to another post that showed the new and old timer wire locations and colors but the colors on this oven are not exactly the same. Do you have any other suggestions.
Thanks Hi jmkyle, I am trying to replace the exact timer for my parents as well. Model Number: JKP27GOD2BG. I had a few questions and was wondering if you could help us out. 1. Did you replace the analog timer with a digital timer or were you able to get the analog timer working again? 2. What was the part number of the timer you replaced? 3. If you replaced it with a digital timer, did you have to modify the bracket to have the timer line up? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
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This is a great thread. I have a GE oven that I can't change out because they don't make my size anymore. Until I read Smileatus' post, I was having trouble connecting the new timer.
I replaced a 3AST51A214A1B
On the new timer, I have jumpered all the whites together using one GE oven 2 terminal spade jumpers, one of the supplied extender wires, both of the terminal 5 spade lugs and one GE oven 2 terminal spade jumpers also on terminal 5. My old timer used those 2-terminal spade jumpers so I didn't have to hunt for them. You may have to use wire nuts and cut off some spade lugs.
Then I have
Terminal Usage Color
1 L1 Red_Red
1 L1 White/red stripe
2 Output 1 Orange from lower oven switch
2 Output 1 Orange from bundle of wires
3 L2 Blue
3 L2 No connection
4 Output 2 Black_Black
4 Output 2 Black
5 Neutral All the whites
5 Neutral All the whites
There is a note on the instructions that says "For the black wires, tie together and do not attach to the new timer" which proved to be inaccurate and confusing.
I can't explain why a separate frame ground had to be connected to the terminal 5. They may already be connected together on a 220V appliance, since you are not required to supply a ground wire from the mains fuse/breaker box. Ground and neutral are connected at the box. I'm guessing on the timer controls that don't work have no jumper on the oven that connects frame ground and neutral because the frame ground is supplied by a 4th wire from the box. In any case, it's safe to add another frame ground/neutral (white wire) on terminal 5. It should be done by adding a lock washer and a crimped green wire lug under one of the hex nuts holding the timer mounting bracket to the oven frame, cut and strip both ends of one of the white wires mentioned above, and using a wire-nut, twist all 3 together the new green and the 2 whites that were cut and stripped. If you can, get a tin-plated lock washer from an electrical supply house or electrician friend. The tin plating will minimize corrosion between your steel frame and the (probably copper, maybe tin plated) lug. You want this to work for years and years.
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Tape should not be used to cover the spliced or extended wires. Please use the supplied heat-shrink tubing. Remember that the cheap plastic Chinese tape doesn't hold under heat and will dry out and turn crispy over time. The top of the oven gets pretty hot during a self-cleaning cycle. And you want this to work for years and years.
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Originally Posted by: jmkyle Gene, this is an old post but i wondered if you can help.
I replaced a timer for my parents oven which is a jkp27god2bg
This oven has self clean on top and not the bottom. Do you think the jumper is supposed to be in the same position as described for self clean or non-clean. I left in the location for self clean and the upper oven will say that it is cleaning but doesnt get hot enough to do it. the latch light on the new timer never comes on and the door doesnt show locked when it gets hot enough. I grounded the board and checked the wiring compared to another post that showed the new and old timer wire locations and colors but the colors on this oven are not exactly the same. Do you have any other suggestions.
Thanks I had the same problem with the analog timer. After a year or two of using Easy-Off for cleaning, my lower heating element burned apart. I got another one from APP and after that, the self-clean worked. I think the upper broiler element is also used during self-clean cycle but am not sure for all models.
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Originally Posted by: WDG I found the problem. In the first picture in my post above there is a green ground wire that connects to the metal mounting housing for the old timer. The body of the new timer is made out of plastic and is not electrically connected to the mounting housing. You have to remove this wire from the old mounting housing and connect it to the #5 terminal on the new timer. It would save a lot of time and trouble if this step were included on the instructions for the new timer. p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } STOP! DO NOT MOVE THE GREEN GROUND WIRE FROM THE METAL CHASSIS TO THE #5 (OR ANY OTHER TERMINAL). Lets discuss the green wire: The breaker box (were the meter is on the side of the house) has two hot bars full of breakers. Each bar has a hot 115v branch line coming in from Edison (or whoever sells you electricity). On one or both sides is a neutral bar that has white, bare or green wires attached to it; this bar is attached to the third wire coming in, the bare aluminum or braided steel wire. The breakers have black and red wires attached to them. The hot wires pitch, the white wires catch. If the white wire breaks, the electricity uses the next best route to ground; THE GROUND WIRE. If the ground wire is not there the next best path back to ground is YOU; THE GUY TOUCHING THE OVEN DOOR. Read your instructions. They suck and incomplete, but at the bottom they tell you to attach the white wires to #5, not #4. I don't know about you but I have bare feet when I use the oven in the morning. THINK ABOUT IT!
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I believe that the electrical code used to say in the olden days that for a 220V circuit, you only needed to supply Red Black and White wires where the red-black pair was 220, and the white was neutral. I believe that for this timer, if you have only a 3-wire supply you will need to connect the frame ground to the control module white wire, as well as the white neutral wire.
When you wire-up a house, you're not supposed to mix white and green wires on the same buss bar. (the rules change depending on how many circuit breakers you have and whether the panel is a sub-panel, etc). That's because there may be current carried by the white wire, and you might get ground loops, actually supplying current through the green wire. That can give you a tingling sensation when you are standing on a wet tile floor on concrete and touching the appliance with your hand. I have seen mis-wired grounds cause unused ground-fault breakers to pop with no apparent reason.
Because white and ground are connected together at the electrical fuse box using buss-bar technology, there should be effectively 0 volts between the 2. Therefore, it is safe to connect the white wire on a 220V circuit using 3-wire inside conduit to the frame ground. That is, green frame ground wire to terminal 5 of the controller.
Remember you can't legally use conduit as your green wire, even though both ends are connected to green (frame) ground.
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