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Jim,
You may want to check the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity as described on page 3 of this thread.
Gene.
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Gene, I went out of town for the day and came back to find the fridge back at 40f and freezer still around -10. Been ok for past two days. I set the freezer temp a little lower (I have two dials; one for freezer and one for fridge) and am waiting to see what happens. I was thinking it's maybe an intermittent thing but am willing to check anything next time it acts up. I can probably get a continuity meter at the local Ace hardware or one of the discount places. appreciate the guidance. OrlandoJim GE GSS25JFPD ww;)
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Thank you. This seems to be my problem too. I'll try this diagnostic whem I get home and let you know.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Such problem has nothing to do with the defrost system. Most likely the door(s) not sealed properly or repeatedly kept ajar.
You can check the door seals by a visual inspection or by inserting a dollar bill between the door gasket and door frame. If it will stay firm, the seal is good. Gene. Gene, This is a reply from your July 30 post, replying to my dilemma. I did the dollar bill test and low and behold, the gasket at the bottom of the door was shot. Of course I couldn't see how rotted out it was until I actually got under the door and looked at it. So, I replaced the gasket on the fridge door (Freezer door was fine), following their directions. That was early August. This past week I noticed that the fridge was not getting as cold as it should, do I pulled things apart and found the port between the freezer and fridge once again blocked solid with ice, as was the control at the top-front of the freezer door. When I pulled the back freezer panel off to manually deforst the clogged port I did find an amount of ice build up behind the thin metal back freezer panel. In short, I have the same problem as before replacing the gasket, just a longer period before the symptoms reappeared. two months, instead of two weeks. Do you have any idea what I should try next? Thanks, Denis
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Denis, What is the temperature in the freezer? What was the ambient temperature at the time it happened? Quote:...When I pulled the back freezer panel off to manually deforst the clogged port I did find an amount of ice build up behind the thin metal back freezer panel... How large it was? Where it was: on the top, in the middle or on the bottom of the evaporator coils? Gene. P.S. Also, one of possibilities is an intermittent problem with the evaporator fan motor.
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Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Jim,
You may want to check the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity as described on page 3 of this thread.
Gene. Gene, Your post here mentions the instructions for fridges that do not have electronics; I have an Amana ABB222ZDEW bottom freezer with the fridge warming and the freezer compartment so cold it is icing inside. We seldom open the freezer as it is a second unit. So far I've several times had to empty the unit to thaw it out when the fridge warms to near 54 degrees. In fact, I am writing this today while waiting for the unit to defrost again. Each time I have extensive icing in the freezer compartment on the ceiling and inside the upper door. How do I check the various components for a defrost cycle failure? Do I read correctly that the timer is built into the control board? I have searched the model number and found a diagram locating the thermistor and the evaporator heater. It also shows a thermostat without any location or number so I 'm lost where to find this part. Do I test each of the other parts to eliminate them to see if the timer control board is the issue? I am not certain what order to test and where all the relavant parts are located for this model. After several times it seems pretty certain the defrost cycle is my problem. Tom H
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Tom, You can check for continuity the defrost heater (#15 on the diagram) and the defrost heater which is located on top of the evaporator, but most likely the problem is a bad control board (#5 on the diagram) which controls defrost cycle among other functions. - The control board Part number: AP4366538
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My refrigerator stopped cooling, but the freezer works. The evaporator fan is not running. The coils do not look overly frozen. I am currently defrosting the unit. Any thoughts
Thanks
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Check for 12-15 VDC to the evaporator fan motor. If the reading is correct, replace the motor. - The evaporator fan motor Part number: AP4502449
Gene.
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