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Dyer Will Not Shut Off When The Timer Times Out. I Replaced Timer Assembly With New Part, Still Same Problem. Is There A Thermal Switch That Has Gone Bad? Dryer Heats Up Fine Will Not Shut Off.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS740PQ0 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. I am assuming that the timer does advance to the off position but will not turn the motor off. As you can see in the wiring diagram the motor is turned off by the BK/BU timer contacts. The buzzer is in parallel with these contacts so I would disconnect it and see if it now turns off. Could be it's winding has shorted out. |
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timer does time out. disconnected buzzer, still does not shut off after timer times out. thanks for the help.:)
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Did this unit used to shut off OK or is it new to you and it has never shut off correctly?
Unplug the dryer.
Then disconnect the wire from either the BK or BU connector on the timer.
Then measure across them.
Move the timer to a cycle, the contacts should close 0 ohms.
Then move it to off, the contacts should open, infinite ohms.
If it does this then you at least know this part of the timer is OK. |
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we have had this dryer for a couple of years now. woked fine untill about a week ago. will bring home merer tomorrow and do checked that you recommended. forgot to mention, new timer will move and time out in the timed dry cycle (dryer still does not shut off) but does not move at all in the rest of the cylces i.e. auto-sense low/high heat and no heat(fluff). thanks:confused:
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I would check the heater element.
The timer motor gets power through the heater element when it is shut off in the auto cycles. If it is grounded then the timer will not advance.
Unfortunately this does not explain why it will not shut off in timed dry.
Could be it is grounded in such a way that power is feeding back through another part.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run and the thermostats cannot regulate it. |
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