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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634PQ0 29" ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

A common cause of this is the thermal fuse on the blower wheel (Item 19 in Section 3) has blown.

Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.

Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.

If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

If it has an interior light, does that work?
OR
Check the power between Neutral and L1, should be 120 volts.

Other things to check are the door switch and the push to start switch.
Then the BK/BU contacts on the timer.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.