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Hi Joe,
Thanks for Info on the Fuse 1st person who could give me some answers...
The Oven was in Use at that time we had put it to do Self Cleaning in the PM Next AM it was Dead and Door Locked... It would not surprise me if During the PM hours we might have had a brown out it happens on Island a lot and or it had received other shut downs in the past 8 months and the self-cleaning did it in!!
TXS for your Help will let U know how it goes :D
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Originally Posted by: ALopezCDP  Hi Joe,
Thanks for Info on the Fuse 1st person who could give me some answers...
The Oven was in Use at that time we had put it to do Self Cleaning in the PM Next AM it was Dead and Door Locked... It would not surprise me if During the PM hours we might have had a brown out it happens on Island a lot and or it had received other shut downs in the past 8 months and the self-cleaning did it in!!
TXS for your Help will let U know how it goes :D Alopez, Good Deal, We'll keep an eye out for your response, I'm sure you'll be up and running soon. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Hi Alopez and Joe,
If you check the Ikeafans website, this is a know problem with the Nutid oven. It tends to happen EVERY time a cleaning is run, unless you manually choose a short cleaning cycle. My suggestion would be to not run the cleaning cycle at all once your oven is fixed.
Joe -- Is there a way to test both the thermal overload device and the thermal fuse with a meter to see which one is bad? I have the oven disconnected, and I don't have a 220 line to test. The oven has been replaced, and I was going to send it to the dump. If it was a the thermal fuse that is the problem, I would be inclined to fix it and pass the oven on to someone to use (and keep it out of the landfill). Since the thermal overload is more expensive, I would probably just not go through the expense of fixing the oven.
Thanks!
Dan
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Originally Posted by: mvparent0 Hi Alopez and Joe,
If you check the Ikeafans website, this is a know problem with the Nutid oven. It tends to happen EVERY time a cleaning is run, unless you manually choose a short cleaning cycle. My suggestion would be to not run the cleaning cycle at all once your oven is fixed.
Joe -- Is there a way to test both the thermal overload device and the thermal fuse with a meter to see which one is bad? I have the oven disconnected, and I don't have a 220 line to test. The oven has been replaced, and I was going to send it to the dump. If it was a the thermal fuse that is the problem, I would be inclined to fix it and pass the oven on to someone to use (and keep it out of the landfill). Since the thermal overload is more expensive, I would probably just not go through the expense of fixing the oven.
Thanks!
Dan Dan, You may want to try a revised thermal fuse, Part number: AP4320019
This part is rated at a slightly higher temperature(we were told) and after you do all the checks listed in the previous posts( proper installation, door alignment, seals, etc.) , repalce the thermal fuse, you should be fine from there on out. :) :) :)
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We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked... There's power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn't reset, the display doesn't light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must've been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00
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Originally Posted by: Regier We bought the fuses and checked to make sure they worked... There's power to the unit but the unit does not have power. The lock didn't reset, the display doesn't light up, nothing. The gasket looks fine. There must've been something plastic on the lock/latch because it melted. Otherwise everything looks good. What do we replace next? Ours is an IKEA NUTID IBS550PWS00 Regier, There are several things to check, start at the control transformer. Make sure you have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Then re check the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board. It had to have gotten pretty warm to melt a part on the self clean door latch, but either way it will need to be replaced Part number: AP6016808
, And there is a "relocation" kit Part number: AP5803432
designed to help keep the controls and thermal fuses in the air flow and keep them from opening or being damaged(see the attachments).
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Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.
I haven't replaced the latch yet because there's no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?
Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I'm not planning to use the self destruct button again, I'll probably return it.
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Originally Posted by: Regier Joe, did what you recommend at the control transformer. I have 120 VAC across the black and white wires and 18 to 24 VAC across the two blue wires at the control board. Re checked the control panel thermal fuse, in the wiring harness between the transformer and the control board.
I haven't replaced the latch yet because there's no power to the display panel. Do you think replacing the latch will restore the power to the unit?
Also, I did order the reconfiguration kit, but if I'm not planning to use the self destruct button again, I'll probably return it. Regier, If you have 120 VAC into the control transformer, and 18-20 VAC across the blue wires (JP03/3 & JP03/2) then you have power into the control board. You can check for line voltage into the clock from the JP06/1 and JP06/2 to chassis ground but you're information says you have the needed voltage, and the problem is in the control. With the way the control is wired and the circuits in the control constantly looking for the latch switch and door switch status, you'll need to replace the door latch assembly. If the control doesn't see the proper circuits, it will produce an error code and the oven will not work.
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For clarification:
If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.
We'll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.
Thank you for your responses.
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Originally Posted by: Regier For clarification:
If we have the needed voltage to the control, but the problem is in the control, we should replace the control transformer?
The clock does not have any light display whatsoever, so we will check those wires as well.
We'll order the latch assembly, but wanted to make sure that we could get power working first.
Thank you for your responses. Regier, Correct, the two blue wires (18-20 VAC) from the control transformer is the power supply for the display, signal and the communication to the relays. If you have the voltage across the two blue wires on the control board, but no display, the control is the issue. Ok, we can understand the waiting on the door self clean latch assembly, power to the control and operation of the oven is more desirable.
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