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Recently, the selfcleaning cycle was done. The oven since then appears to take too long to preheat. To reach 350 F, it takes 43 to 45 minutes slightly less in convection mode. The outer top visible heat element is hot to the touch, the same for the hidden bottom baking element. On broiling mode, the dual top visible element does not appear bright red. Everything else in the unit, including the stovetop works fine.
I have replaced the dual upper heating element, the oven temperature sensor and the electronic touch control board to no avail.
Would like to have suggestions on what to do next?
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here is your parts breakdown Model KERC607HBS1Here is the tech sheet https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%209753027.pdfPlease double check that the Model is HBS1 as there is also a HBS10 which is different. You pretty well have changed everything. So here goes my guess!! You will see at the top of the wiring diagram is a BI METAL SWITCH AMBIENT, perhaps they are using this to check the exterior temp and then it is cutting back on the power supplied to the oven elements. I would check it to be sure it is closed (0 ohms). If you do not have a meter you could short the two wires together. Tape them up so they cannot short to anything and give it a try. I think it is Item 17 in the "Cooktop,literature" section. This is guess as I could find nothing in the info to support this. Only other thing I can think of is the DLB relay as this is common to all oven elements. Could be the contacts are poor and it is dropping voltage across them. Though I doubt this as the volts they would have to use to give the symptoms you have would probably blow them up. |
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Thanks for your reply.I will try the bimetal switch and let you know. I am not an expert at all but it almost seems like the oven heating elements are only getting one 110 v line out of the 220 v.
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Yes running on 120 would also have been my first thought but I cannot see anything that would do this. Your surface elements work good so they must be getting 240. |
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By the way I forgot it is a model HBS1. In the wiring diagram I notice this (optional) dlb relay coil. Could you tell me what that does? Thanks,just trying to learn.
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I believe it is for Dynamic Load Balancing but since you are running the oven all on it's own it should close and stay closed |
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Sorry for the delay. I took the terminals off the bimetal switch ambient (item 17) as you suggested. Tested the switch with a multimeter set at 200 ohms and got readings varying from 35 to 80. I guess this means the switch is no good??? Would the next step be to tape each of the two terminals separate, power up and time the heating cycle to reach 350 versus before. Correct??? Would really like your reply.Thanks,
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Yes that is what I would do next.
The bi metal switch should have read 0 ohms so I agree with you it is probably bad.
Make sure to get good contact when you short the two together otherwise you will get an arc and spark and burn up the connectors. |
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Back to ground zero. I bypassed the ambient switch by connecting the two terminals together,powered up.It still took 40 plus minutes to reach 350 f. I did look into the terminal block where the power comes in and one red output line has an inline fuse in it but it looks ok to may. Any more thoughts?Doubler relay? Thanks.
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Could be but I doubt it, mind you I was sure the ambient thermostat was the problem.
I would measure the voltage across one of the elements when it is on preheat.
If it less than you normal voltage in (240 as an example). Then measure across the relay contacts, they should have 0 or minimal voltage across them with the element on.
Just be careful there is not a stove made that is worth your life!!! |
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