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jmack123  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 14, 2011 3:59:40 AM(UTC)
jmack123

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Vent is clear and changing heat setting to lower setting doesn't seem to
make much difference. The case still seems too hot.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 2:30:11 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEQ9800PW1 27" ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

First I would check the heating element.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high all the time.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
GEQ9800.pdf (253kb) downloaded 11 time(s).
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jmack123  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 6:35:54 AM(UTC)
jmack123

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I cleaned and replaced the three sensors two on the heater box and the one
on the blower box. also checked the heater zero ohms to ground and 10 ohms
across the element. Could the drum seal be bad?
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 11:39:00 AM(UTC)
denman

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Could the drum seal be bad?
Could be, see the following
http://forum.appliancepartspros...oo-hot-all-settings.html

I am assuming that the "0 ohms" (element to frame) is an error as 0 ohms would be a dead short.
So I am assuming you mean infinite ohms (open) which is what it should be.
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jmack123  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 12:01:51 PM(UTC)
jmack123

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yes I meant open no contact one of those senior things so what else can make this dryer run hot? As I said vents are clean with good air flow three
sensors replaced heater checks good. any thoughts.
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 3:08:59 PM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Could the drum seal be bad?[/COLOR]
The above could be it take a look at the link I sent earlier.
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