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another "dryer runs but no heat" problem
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Model: WED5540SQ0 Brand: Whirlpool Age: 5 - 10 years
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Rayman812  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 27, 2011 7:31:38 PM(UTC)
Rayman812

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My first crack at appliance repair didnt go too well. The dryer came with the house we bought, it runs, blows/flows alot of air, everything seems solid except there's no heat - so I figure it's a fairly easy fix. This is an extra dryer that I was hoping to fix and give it to my parents.

The old heating coil was in pieces, figures that was the problem so I replaced the heating element first. Didn't fix it so I went ahead and replaced the thermal fuse, hi-limit thermo, operating thermo and thermo cut-off also. New power cord was put it as it was missing one altogether. And I've been testing it at the outlet of a 100% functioning dryer so I know it's getting the right voltage.

Original plan is to spend little and give it a shot, if that fixes it great, if not so be it. So far I've spent $50 and really at a point where I'm just pissed off at it and just wanna do whatever it takes to get it fixed (minus paying someone else to do it). Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Ray
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 4:13:09 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED5540SQ0 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

Unplug the unit and set the it to timed dry mid-cycle.
And measure from the power cord (L1) to the right side of the heating element (as per the wiring diagram). Should be 10 ohms (heater resistance) approximately.
If not then check timer switch 2, should be 0 ohms.
If not the timer is toast.
If switch 2 is OK then perhaps one of the parts you replaced is no good.

If you do get the 10 ohms then either is is a bad wire or the motor's centrifugal switch which turns on the heater is toast.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
WED5540.pdf (156kb) downloaded 27 time(s).
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Rayman812  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 6:03:40 PM(UTC)
Rayman812

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ok, i did a couple of checks as suggested....

I am getting 10 ohms (9.8 to be exact) b/t the power cord L1 and the heater element. I am also getting 0 ohm at the timer switch (0.2 to be exact, checked red wire at the thermo cutoff per the diagram).

So that leaves me, according to your response, the motor centrifugal switch or a bad wire....im guessing that can be ANY wire in the harness....

Where/how can I get to the motor centrifugal switch....and how can i verify that it's good or bad? I guess I'm gonna take that route first since that's easier than trying to sip through all the wires.

Thanks again, Ray
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denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1:38:03 AM(UTC)
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One way to check it is to unplug the unit, remove and short together the wires at the switch.
Tape them so they cannot short to anything else.
Then plug it in and give it a try.
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Rayman812  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 4:30:11 AM(UTC)
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where is the switch? how do i get to it?
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denman  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 10:34:28 AM(UTC)
denman

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Switches are part of the motor (Item 62 in Section 1)

This series should help.
YouTube - ‪WHIRLPOOL DRYER REPAIR VIDEO 1‬‏

Your unit may have 2 screws at the front/bottom holding the front cover on.
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Rayman812  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 7:25:56 PM(UTC)
Rayman812

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thanks for the link...i watched all 12 parts but it didnt address the centrifugal switch. i understand that it's attached/part of the motor, and to "short"/bypass it by connecting its 2 leads together and running it will verify whether it's good or bad. now i know how to get to the motor, but would you be able to show me a picture of a motor w/ that switch pointed out so i know exactly what im looking for and which wires im supposed to short. i googled a bit and saw only a drawing of one and not a photo...just want to make sure i'm not gonna create new problems.

Thanks, Ray
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denman  
#8 Posted : Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:08:34 AM(UTC)
denman

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Go to the parts link.
Then scroll down to the Item 62 in Section 1 and then click on the motor's picture. A new page will open with more views of the motor you can then click on them to expand them.

You can see the switches on the pulley end of the motor.

The wiring diagram shows the two wires as being red.
They will be the thicker two wires as they carry the heater current.
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Rayman812  
#9 Posted : Thursday, June 30, 2011 6:25:22 AM(UTC)
Rayman812

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sorry to keep asking seemingly the same [dumb] question haha....on the photo of the motor below, which side is the pulley side? right or left? (my current assumption is the left side and the black "box" is the switch you are talking about? seeing how that's the only place i see there are 2 wires)

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...9zb3RvaHB0cmFwLw%3d=.jpg
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denman  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, July 5, 2011 12:17:59 AM(UTC)
denman

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Yes the left side is the pulley side.
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