Did you remove the wires from at least one side of any device you were measuring for continuity (thermostats etc.)?

You must do this to ensure you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path and not just the device.

There is a good sticky at the top of this forum.

It's also possible your only receiving one leg of the 220 plug. 110 of the electricity is used to run the motor, and the other 110 is used to heat. Check breaker box to ensure nothing is tripped, then check for voltage at both legs of the plug.Today 05:51 AM
denmanDid you remove the wires from at least one side of any device you were measuring for continuity (thermostats etc.)?

You must do this to ensure you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path and not just the device.

There is a good sticky at the top of this forum.Today 01:50 AM


I do have 250v actually, motor runs and timer switch works, just not heating. yes I did disconnect each component(btw i am an electrician of 25 years,so not new to troubleshooting,) each piece is fine, except there is no continuity through the two red wires going thru the motor connector when plugged into the motor, however motor runs fine

Is this your wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203406688.pdf

Not sure where you are putting your meter leads on the motor switch.
One lead is on Timers Switch 2 R but what side of the motor switch is the other lead.

If on the heater side then something is open through the heater/thermostat circuit and should be easy to isolate.
If on the line side then an open is normal. The centrifugal switch does not close till the motor gets close to operating speed.

when the unit is running all terminal thruout the circuit read 120v to ground, and 0 volts across each thermal, heatercoil, etc.

The 120 to ground really does not tell you much.
Lets say the centrifugal switch is not closing, then at all points you are measuring L1 to ground. If the switch does close then you are measuring L1 to ground on the right side of the heater and L2 to ground on the left side.

The 0 volts across the heater does indicate that the centrifugal switch is the most likely culprit.

I would remove the two heavier red wires from the motor's centrifugal switch, short them together, tape them up so they cannot short to ground and give it a try. If you get heat then you know the switch is blown or the centrifugal mechanism is not closing it. The switch itself is not available so the only way to fix it is a new motor.

Here are the parts
Model LER4634EQ1

If the above does not give heat then all that is left in the circuit is the timer re: TIMER SWITCH 2 R contact is not closing. It would give the same symptoms except now the 120 you measure is L2 to ground. You probably have already checked this for continuity so that is why I am going with the centrifugal switch.