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Quick update. Installed the outer tub. The noise was indeed the bearings. The outer tub part comes with the plastic outer tub and a new shaft with new bearings, that's it. Forget about replacing the bearings on your old tub...trust me it's not worth it. My washer is all fixed now. Thanks!!!
The crappy little rubber washer on the agitator flattens/deforms over time, the bolt resultantly has less tension on the outer tub shaft, water leaks down around the inner tub collar, ruins the outer tub shaft bearings, they leak grease and wear prematurely, you get a wicked whirling noise on the spin cycle, and that's what happens.
If someone else gets the noise make sure to replace the outer tub ($200+ ouch) AND the $1 rubber washer which starts the problem. It only took me a few hours (this site has the takedown manuals) and about 10 bloody hand cuts from unfinished metal on the interior of the washer. All in all an educational experience for those with mechanical ability.
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Originally Posted by: porktyme  Quick update. Installed the outer tub. The noise was indeed the bearings. The outer tub part comes with the plastic outer tub and a new shaft with new bearings, that's it. Forget about replacing the bearings on your old tub...trust me it's not worth it. My washer is all fixed now. Thanks!!!
The crappy little rubber washer on the agitator flattens/deforms over time, the bolt resultantly has less tension on the outer tub shaft, water leaks down around the inner tub collar, ruins the outer tub shaft bearings, they leak grease and wear prematurely, you get a wicked whirling noise on the spin cycle, and that's what happens.
If someone else gets the noise make sure to replace the outer tub ($200+ ouch) AND the $1 rubber washer which starts the problem. It only took me a few hours (this site has the takedown manuals) and about 10 bloody hand cuts from unfinished metal on the interior of the washer. All in all an educational experience for those with mechanical ability. Porkytyme, Thanks for the update, report. It'll come in handy for others when they review the Repair Forum Posts. Glad you're up and running, and happy we could assist. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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I was reading this thread and I have the same issue. Loud noise on spin cycle and for the past 3 weeks it is leaking. I torn it down yesterday and found that the seal on the tub is leaking, causing water to get to the bearings, hence the load noise. My question is, is the only part I need to order is the tub assembly AP4316595 which comes with the tub, shaft, bearings, seal. Above in the thread it mentions that he had to replace the $200 tub assembly and $1 seal. Do i need 2 part# or just order the AP4316595? Thanks for you help.
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Originally Posted by: pglen I was reading this thread and I have the same issue. Loud noise on spin cycle and for the past 3 weeks it is leaking. I torn it down yesterday and found that the seal on the tub is leaking, causing water to get to the bearings, hence the load noise. My question is, is the only part I need to order is the tub assembly AP4316595 which comes with the tub, shaft, bearings, seal. Above in the thread it mentions that he had to replace the $200 tub assembly and $1 seal. Do i need 2 part# or just order the AP4316595? Thanks for you help. Pglen, You'll receive evrything you need, when you order the outer tub assembly "kit". Just be carefull and clean and thoroughly dry everything when you start the rebuild. I believe the previous poster, was a little upset over the cost of the part, to have to spend that kind of money, because a 3 or 4 dollar part failed. You'll be fine, once you get the part and have it installed. Good Luck, :D :D :D
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Joe, I was having same problem, bearing/seal leaking, ordered outer tub (it was here the next day, awesome) but it seems to me that there should be some type of lubricant on the shaft/basket to allow for easier movement. Is there a certain type of grease for this application
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Originally Posted by: mcclainms Joe, I was having same problem, bearing/seal leaking, ordered outer tub (it was here the next day, awesome) but it seems to me that there should be some type of lubricant on the shaft/basket to allow for easier movement. Is there a certain type of grease for this application Mcclain, We would normally recommend a thin coat of lubricant on the shaft assembly using "molykote" lube Part number: AP4027115
But, any water proof lubricant will work. Just remember to " not over do it", just a small thin coat on the shaft, and at the end of the shaft that seats into the stator / rotor assembly, is all you need.
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Thanks Joe, great site, will recommend you guys to everyone, also want to "WARN" others of potential bad advice, read a couple sites telling people to drill holes and drain fluid out of balance ring, and other crazy stuff.
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Originally Posted by: mcclainms Thanks Joe, great site, will recommend you guys to everyone, also want to "WARN" others of potential bad advice, read a couple sites telling people to drill holes and drain fluid out of balance ring, and other crazy stuff. Mcclain, You're Welcome !!! Drilling holes in the balance ring, will only create other issues, and hopefully your post and others will help to resolve a lot of the misinformation Thanks Again,
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Ok Joe, I installed outer tub, ran diagnostics again, no problems. Ran washer through the clean cycle and it quits at the spin cycle and gives me f54. Any sugestions?
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Originally Posted by: mcclainms Ok Joe, I installed outer tub, ran diagnostics again, no problems. Ran washer through the clean cycle and it quits at the spin cycle and gives me f54. Any sugestions ? mcclainms, The F54 code indicates an issue in the drive system " F 54 Motor Control Overcurrent F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module. Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction. ➔ If basket turns freely Unplug washer or disconnect power. Check to see if basket will turn freely. ➔ If basket turns freely. ➔ If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. ➔ If visual checks pass, ➔ If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. ➔ With an ohmmeter, verify resistance values. You should find the tech data information sheet attached to the inside of the front panel and can verify the resistance readings from the tech sheet.
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