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You are welcome Tony. The full description on the defrost cycle in your dual evaporator refrigerator is attached to the reply. Keep us posted. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Thank you so much for putting so much information on this forum. I have never done any appliance repair before, but with you directions have managed to fairly easily discover that my fridge is having a defrost problem. I have a Kenmore 596.72289.200 with a bottom freezer. My only problem is I not sure about the details of ohm testing the defroster heater, thermostat, and control board (my model does not have a timer). I have located all three pieces, but I'm not sure which wires to test with the ohm meter, or what reading I want from the ohm meter. Here are my questions specifically. I would really appreciate your help. If I figure this out, my husband and father-in-law will be totally impressed! And even better, hopefully my fridge will work again.
Loren :)
1. From the pictures you attached a few posts ago, it looks like the defrost heater is actually the black wire-like structures around the metal grill and coils. Is that correct. If so, to test the ohms across that piece do I just touch the two ends of the ohm meter to either end of that black structure (with unit unplugged and freezer cold)? Do I need to remove the wires from their white plastic clips (harnesses?) or can I simply stick the probes of the ohm meter into the white clips and touch the metal I see inside? What reading should I expect?
2. I see the two wires coming from the thermostat, but they are also incorporated into a white plastic clip (harness?). Again, can I stick the ohm meter into these holes in the plastic clip and touch metal or do I need to remove the wires? If I need to remove the wires, how do I do that without damaging the wires? What reading should I expect?
3. Where should I touch the ohm meter to test the adapt defrost board (part #12566102)? What reading should I expect?
Thank you so much for the help!!
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Gene,
Many thanks on your topic. I was at the mercy of a local appliance parts store when trying to discover why frig was too warm. First replaced temperature control ($100 part) and that worked for about a month the frig heated up again. They suggested the defrost timer and heater ($150 more) (both were working fine) but that did not change anything. I logged on to this site and read all pages in this thread and have narrowed it down to the defrost thermostat which it turns out is the cheapest of all the parts to replace. Long story short, should have done the research first and saved some bucks. Well, I do have some replacement parts on hand for the future. Good site and good expertise. I'll start here next time. Many thanks for sharing!
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Okay, Kenmore Elite side by side: 106.44323400
First instance of these symptoms found some ice on coils. Did an open door defrost, all diagnostic tests using the electronic pad passed, but ice came back in two weeks.
Second time around, did the open door defrost, defrost thermostat continuity checked good at 0 ohms when cold, defrost heater element checks good at 22 Ohms. I assume a control board replacement is the next step.
When I type in my model number on the appropriate search page, and then search for 'control board', it shows AP3137510 but then talks about an emitter and receiver, so that makes me think that is just for the ice maker? Looking at all parts available for my model manually, I see AP4411082 which looks more like what I would expect a main control board to be.
Which one do I need to order?
Thanks!
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Gene or anyone else available,
Ge refrigerator was too warm and went through the usual defrost timer, thermostat and heater. Thermostat was bad and replaced along with the timer and temperature sensing switch. Now everything is cycling as it should, but just one little problem. Freezer only gets to 26-30 degrees and frig at 50. This is pretty constant now and freezer will rise in temp during the 30 minute defrost cycle. The lowest it goes is 25.7 degrees. I recently pulled the back panel off the freezer compartment and checked for frost. Only the lower section had any. The top area, while cold, had no frost. I then unplugged the unit and listened to what could only be described as ocean waves coming from the coils. this continued for 5-10 minutes and stopped when I plugged the machine in. Compressor is running, fans are all running. The only time the system shuts down is when the defrost cycle begins. Compressor runs at all other times, as the frig never gets cold enough to shut the compressor down. I think it is now time fro a repair man as I am at my highest level of incompetence. What say everyone else?
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Originally Posted by: inveigle5 
1. From the pictures you attached a few posts ago, it looks like the defrost heater is actually the black wire-like structures around the metal grill and coils. Is that correct. If so, to test the ohms across that piece do I just touch the two ends of the ohm meter to either end of that black structure (with unit unplugged and freezer cold)? Do I need to remove the wires from their white plastic clips (harnesses?) or can I simply stick the probes of the ohm meter into the white clips and touch the metal I see inside? What reading should I expect?
2. I see the two wires coming from the thermostat, but they are also incorporated into a white plastic clip (harness?). Again, can I stick the ohm meter into these holes in the plastic clip and touch metal or do I need to remove the wires? If I need to remove the wires, how do I do that without damaging the wires? What reading should I expect?
3. Where should I touch the ohm meter to test the adapt defrost board (part #12566102)? What reading should I expect?
Thank you so much for the help!!
Hi Loren, Sorry for the delay. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter. Always unplug any appliance prior to work with it. 1. Yes, as you can see on the following picture, the defrost heater looks like a black tube with two wires on its ends. In order to test it for continuity you have to disconnect the wires. According to the picture there are quick disconnect plug on each end, so you have just unplug them. 2. If there is no quick disconnect plug for the defrost heater, then just cut its wires far enough from the thermostat to splice it back if needed and clean the wires from an insulation to attach the probe leads. This part has to be ice cold during the continuity test. The best way is to put the thermostat in a glass with ice cubes and water for about 10 minutes before test. 3. You can not test the ADC board instrumentally by its design. So if the defrost thermostat and defrost heater will pass the continuity test, just replace the ADC board. - The defrost heater Part number: AP4076588
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Originally Posted by: catmandu Okay, Kenmore Elite side by side: 106.44323400
First instance of these symptoms found some ice on coils. Did an open door defrost, all diagnostic tests using the electronic pad passed, but ice came back in two weeks.
Second time around, did the open door defrost, defrost thermostat continuity checked good at 0 ohms when cold, defrost heater element checks good at 22 Ohms. I assume a control board replacement is the next step.
When I type in my model number on the appropriate search page, and then search for 'control board', it shows AP3137510 but then talks about an emitter and receiver, so that makes me think that is just for the ice maker? Looking at all parts available for my model manually, I see AP4411082 which looks more like what I would expect a main control board to be.
Which one do I need to order?
Thanks! Sounds like you are on the right track. The control board is located on the back of the refrigerator and is shown as #19 on the diagram. - The control board Part number: AP4411082
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: gunworks ...I recently pulled the back panel off the freezer compartment and checked for frost. Only the lower section had any. The top area, while cold, had no frost. I then unplugged the unit and listened to what could only be described as ocean waves coming from the coils. this continued for 5-10 minutes and stopped when I plugged the machine in. Compressor is running, fans are all running. The only time the system shuts down is when the defrost cycle begins. Compressor runs at all other times, as the frig never gets cold enough to shut the compressor down. I think it is now time fro a repair man as I am at my highest level of incompetence... Unfortunately sounds you are right and there is a problem with a sealed system. It can be low on Freon or there is a restriction in the capillary tube. Such problem should be tested and repaired by a certified tech. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: TMunsch So Gene any thought on my problem? Thanks in advance, Tom
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