Drags,

I found the piston and nut and I found the breakdown diagram that Gene posted that went to here:
Model GSD4030Z07WW

Another link that may be useful is:

http://www.************.com/0088_9_1.asp#Level1_4

Gene's post contained two links that went to the diagram. My browser did not display the links well and I didn't notice them at first.

About the center screws which also hold down the element -- the idiot enjineers who designed the washer ran the heating element directly over the two 3/4"screws making it impossible to use a socket. A 1/2"screw would have done but they had to make removal more difficult with 3/4 hardware.

I removed the nut and #564 pump and found some crud on the pump shaft. The plunger and seat are okay. I put it all back together again and will give it a "smoke test" tomorrow. The #543 filter frame (I believe that's the long plastic "filter" at the rear-most part of the tub), has a fine mesh at the front but large openings at the top that allow all kinds of crud to enter the compartment and settle into the pump area; another fine GE design!

If my machine still doesn't drain, I guess I'll follow Hugh J and pull the # 560 valve.

Hugh -- on my machine, yes, I had to drain all water, unplug the electrical and remove and drain the drain line; I still had a mess on the floor. To get to the bottom of the unit, I flipped it over on it's back. Mind the insulation pads on the sides when you pull the unit out. They tend to catch and tear on various items that stick out into the opening. The most difficult problem I had in removal was prying loose the two #888 clips at the front-top of the unit after removing the screws that go into the under side of the counter top. 'Course you have to loosen up the two # 70 leveling screws before removing the unit. Then it just tips out from the bottom.

Good luck!

Kenn

Well, my machine still doesn't drain and I now have a door seal that leaks. Off to buy some parts -- door seals and a # 560 valve; cheers.

kenn

Thanks guys. I got the parts that I needed (door seals for the leaks -- called "baffles") and the infamous piston and nut assembly (Part Details - GE Piston & nut, part number: WD24X10018).

Installed the parts, turned on the machine -- and it WORKS! No leaks and the machine drains normally.

I also bought some Dishrack repair touch up paint (WPL 676455 [Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Dishrack repair touch up paint, grey, part number: 676455] ) to patch the racks. A set of new racks is some $150 and I thought I would give some Dremel grinding/sanding, and tough up paint a try and maybe buy another couple of years before I have to replace the racks due to rusting.

Regds, KB

Hi Steve,

I would definitely remove the inner door panel and check the wires.

Gene.

Could not find a wiring diagram for this unit.

Does the drain solenoid pull down then release.
Usually the power to pull the solenoid down is only around 10 to 20 seconds, then the water pressure holds the flapper valve closed.

If the solenoid is powered for the entire drain cycle it will overheat and eventually fail.

Cannot say for sure if this applies to this model but it does to other models of the same basic design.

Tape or clip your meter leads to the solenoid wires to see if you are getting this pulse. If yes, you have a mechanical problem.
If no check each wire from the solenoid back to the controller. remove the wire from the solenoid when doing this just to be sure you are not measuring and alternate/parallel circuit path.