Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 2
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My GE dishwasher runs all cycles and can hear pump working and spraying.
There is no air gap, plumbed directly into sink drain.
Will drain partially, and I have disconnected drain hose and put in bucket on floor and see no blockage.
I have opened inside drain and checked screens, not blocked.
Is there a timer setting or sensor that could be bad?
What else can I try?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Hi Steve, You have to check: 1. The piston and nut (#564 on the break down diagram). Unscrew it and check the cone. 2. Remove the dishwasher. Remove the body valve (#560 on the break down diagram) and check the flapper inside. Here are the break down diagrams for the GE dishwasher Model GSD4030Z07WW, similar to yours. Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/7/2008(UTC) Posts: 750
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Follow GENE's #1 answer, They DO fail often, very easy to check!!!!!:)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2008(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thank you, I will check that tonight.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Strve's problem is identical to mine. Does the dishwasher really have to be removed to change the piston and nut part?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/7/2008(UTC) Posts: 750
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NO!!! just remove the lower rack, remove the REAR cover inside the unit, and unscrew the piston and nut. (1 part) you will see a tan or white silocone plunger on a spring loaded shaft, when you push on the spring loaded shaft, the plunger should close the hole at the top of the nut!!! Most that I have seen with a few years on them have the silocone worn away, if yours dosent COMPLETELY cover the hole, You have found your trouble!!!!!;)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks Dags1998, I should have pulled that cover too. I just didn't think that valve was that far back.
Hugh
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/16/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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I have the same problem as others in the Group and I can't find a break down diagram (Google failed me) for the machine nor can I find the piston. Each cycle leaves about 3 gallons of yucky water in the machine.
My problem is very similar to Steve Chesnut's. I have removed everything that I could find inside the unit (one exception) and I haven't found the piston and nut that Drags1998 described.
Okay, the exception -- there is a plastic screen at the rear of the unit that goes all the way across the machine. It is held by two screws in the corners (no problem) and two in the center (forward edge of the screen). The two in the center also hold down a bracket for the rear of the heating element; they require a 1/4" open-end wrench to remove, which I don't have. I pried up the rear of the screen, (badly cutting up several fingers) and can't feel any parts under it. Is the piston under that screen somewhere? If so, I'll buy a wrench!
Any help would be much appreciated. My wife is demanding a NEW MACHINE unless I can fix this one ASAP as we've been washing dishes by hand for a month!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/7/2008(UTC) Posts: 750
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Not all GE dishwashers have the part #564 in them. I do believe that if you have the screen in the rear of the unit, There IS a #564 in there. Go buy a 1/4" NUT DRIVER(SEARS) and take the screen off, The part that you need is under that screen!!!!!!!:cool:
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I changed the piston and nut #564, which was bad, but it still won't drain completely. I guess the next step is to pull the unit from the counter to get to the valve, #560? Would you expect that the electrical and drain will have to be disconnected to get the unit out far enough to get to the valve:mad:?
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