Originally Posted by: jattaie 
Hi folks,
I just woke up to a clicking fridge. The clicking seems to be coming from the panel behind the fridge. The fridge and freezer are cool like they usually are.
History:
Filter light has been on for a while but I haven't gotten around to replacing the filter yet.
The ice and water dispenser on the freezer side door haven't been dispensing anything for a a while, but the ice maker keeps making ice and I have been emptying it manually.
I unplugged the fridge for 15 minutes and plugged it back in and I still get the clicking.
Is this a compressor problem or a control board problem. Based on what I've read, I'm leaning toward a control board problem.
Can anybody share some advice? Do I have to leave the fridge unplugged until I get it fixed? When the fridge clicks, the lights in the house dim.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Jattaie,
You're probably correct, the "mother board" seems to be the "weak link" in that style refrigerator.
But you should check the compressor motor windings and voltage to the compressor
The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator.
The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Beneath the terminal cover is found the relay, overload protector
and the terminals of the compressor motor.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or
replaced.
Test the motor for
continuity using a
multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms.
Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service.
Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn.
None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.
Once you've done these tests, you'll need to plug the power cord back in and turn on the refrigerator and test the wire to the overload for 120 VAC from the "motherboard" while the relay is clicking.If you have a constant 120 VAC on the wire, the board is OK, and you have a bad start relay/overload assembly.
Good Luck,
:) :) :)
