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Hi Icehouse,
Googled the dry pellet, UV light business and I know what it is now. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I learned something.
What is wrong with my theory re the higher pressures caused by high side restriction in drier?
Rich H
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Richmaytag  Moved to Port St Lucie, Florida in 2004 - just in time for the two big hurricanes that hit!!!!!!!!!! Got "initiated" fast, real fast!
No idea what you are talking about regarding using drier with dye pellet and UV light but I will ask the dude. Have a gut feeling that the dude will give me a real nice blank stare. Folks down here are very, very nice but the real natives are a tad light between the ears. Thank god there are enough Yank "immigrants" down here for a little mental stimulation.
Reason why I do not think it is a clogged drier is that,( I may be wrong and if so please tell me why), is that my logic tells me that that situation would restrict the flow of refrigerant into the high pressure side of the circuit more, further increase the pressure and make it almost impossible for the compressor to ever start until the pressures equalized over time. For the compressor to start immediately tells me that there is practically no restriction whatsoever on the high pressure side.
Teach me, man, I am willing to learn!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Rich H My friend you hit the nail on the head. If this "gentleman" is a factory service, he will know what I am talking about. Have wife's relatives in Cape Coral. Florida is not for me tried it for six weeks.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Icehouse.
Had the dude come over and he replaced the drier with one that also had a soldered tube and valve on one end. He was familiar with the dye pellet and said this one had it.(Think he was bs ing me) He installed the drier, purged the system and then installed the 3.25 oz of refrigerant called for. He installed another valve at the end of the tube used initially for filling unit. (Used one valve for purging and the other for filling)
Previously, the machine ran constantly and the internal freezer temp never went down below 17.6 degrees in the freezer. Current consumption was about .9 amps.
Now the unit works the way it is supposed to (it went down to 1.8 degrees before I stopped it) and my temperature control works. Before I could never shut down the refrigerator via this control because it never got cold enough. But here is the kicker - now that unit is properly gassed, the current consumption is identical. I expected higher pressures in the high side with the new higher charge and an increase in power consumption.
Can you explain why the power consumption is identical? My ammeter is fine since I checked it with other appliances and they all indicated what they are supposed to be drawing.
Your words of wisdom are appreciated.
Thanks
Rich H
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Rank: Advanced Member
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R-134a should have a head pressure around 135#.
You mean to tell me he did not evacuate ? purged the unit how ?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 440
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Originally Posted by: Richmaytag Hi Icehouse.
Had the dude come over and he replaced the drier with one that also had a soldered tube and valve on one end. He was familiar with the dye pellet and said this one had it.(Think he was bs ing me) He installed the drier, purged the system and then installed the 3.25 oz of refrigerant called for. He installed another valve at the end of the tube used initially for filling unit. (Used one valve for purging and the other for filling)
Previously, the machine ran constantly and the internal freezer temp never went down below 17.6 degrees in the freezer. Current consumption was about .9 amps.
Now the unit works the way it is supposed to (it went down to 1.8 degrees before I stopped it) and my temperature control works. Before I could never shut down the refrigerator via this control because it never got cold enough. But here is the kicker - now that unit is properly gassed, the current consumption is identical. I expected higher pressures in the high side with the new higher charge and an increase in power consumption.
Can you explain why the power consumption is identical? My ammeter is fine since I checked it with other appliances and they all indicated what they are supposed to be drawing.
Your words of wisdom are appreciated.
Thanks
Rich H Where are you taking your "Amp" reading, should be 7.2. Unit uses 3.75 oz R-134a. :)
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the link. Saved the pdf file.
The fella purged the system via a yellow jacket vacuum pump. He hooked that up to one of the two valves I alluded to and hooked up the syringe type gadget to the other valve. After sucking it down to vacuum he held it there. He resoldered one of the connections and we monitored for it holding. Then he introduced the refrigerant with the tube.
Everything is working fine now, but I still do not understand why the unit with more gas and more pressure is still using the same amount of electricity. Before it ran constantly except for when the defrost cycle kicked in - now it turns off so as I see it I am using less kw hours per month. Why same current consumption with new higher charge. Since the unit has always been like this temp and operation wise from the git go, I am convinced it was charged improperly.
Any explanation re the juice question?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
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Proper System Evacuation: After installing a new drier, system should be connected with a service manifold Blue Hose to low side access fitting with a "tee" installed (for connecting "Micron Gauge). Red Hose to access fitting located on the system discharge line or a "pig-tail" on drier. The center Yellow Hose should be connected to a good vacuum pump. A tee fitting should be installed at the center port of the gauge manifold so as to connect the Yellow Hose to one side of the "tee's run" and a Green Hose to the charging cylinder, the other end to the other side of the "tee's run". You may also use a "four-valve manifold".
With the charging cylinder's valve and both handwheels of gauge manifold closed, start the vacuum pump. Open the high side hand wheel fully and observe low side gauge. When you notice low side going below fifteen inches of vacuum, open the low side hand wheel fully and turn on "Micron Gauge".
Continue to pull vacuum until "Micron Gauge" reads 500 Microns.
Close both gauge hand wheels,turn off vacuum pump and observe Micron Gauge. It should remain at 500. If it rises slowly, there is still moisture in the system. If it rises rapidly, then you have a leak.
After noticing that the micron reading is steady,close valve on vacuum pump, turn "Micron Gauge off, open valve on charging cylinder. Slowly open high side hand wheel allowing refrigerant to enter as a liquid.Close hand wheel.
Once pressures have balanced start unit and observe pressures.
Low Side between 3-5 psig High Side around 135 psig.
Close charging cylinder valve. Remove hoses from tee on center port.
Replace yellow hose on center port and hose holder.
Remove hoses from high and low side access fittings and install caps using teflon tape on fitting to prevent leaks. :)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC)
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I don't mean to be a "wind-bag",:D just trying to be of help. :)
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Rank: Member
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He did not fill it your way, that is for sure. But you still have not answered my question regarding the equal power consumption under both scenarios.
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