Ken,

The INA SCE-910 caged needle bearing for the Lower Spinner Support bearing (Clutch Pulley side) was purchased from these folks.





You may try local to your area and get it cheaper.

Ken,

Before I answer that question “”it only runs through short spin cycles after starting it up, never had a problem with the electronics before””.

I asked if your lower Outer Tub bearing was the dual bearing assembly (was one half of the lower Outer Tub bearing a ball bearing assembly and the other part of the bearing a One-Way bearing) making up the Lower Outer Tub bearing as I show in the pic of post #4 (permalink)?

If the Lower Outer Tub bearing was of that type you had to shim out when you replaced it with the 6207-2RS bearing. If you shimed out what did you use for shims, their thickness and how many?

OK your question; “”it only runs through short spin cycles after starting it up, never had a problem with the electronics before””

Let’s make sure I understand. You select a wash cycle and (with other settings selected) and you press the Start button. Are you saying the machine does not fill with water and run the wash/agitate cycle but goes directly into a short Spin Cycle?

If you can give me all the detail you can and we will proceed with troubleshooting. There is nothing to reset on the Control Board.

I assume nothing is binding after the Outer Tub rebuild. By that I mean with the front cover off and looking down on the Clutch Pulley can you rotate the Clutch Pulley by hand CCW and after a few turns the wash basket should rotate CCW. If you then rotate the Clutch Pulley CW the Tumblers will rotate all with no binding is that correct?

Thru the Lid can you rotate the Wash Basket CCW only is that correct?
I work nights Tue thru Sat 4PM to 12:30AM here on the East Coast. I will try to reply ASAP on your response.......Dick

OOPS,
Rooky mistake. I over tightened shaft nut.Runs like a new machine now.
Thanks for your help.

Best Regards

Ken.

Hi Dick.
I did not use the upper clutch bearing, as I could not get it to fit properly. There is not enough room for the assembly. I will have to see how this works out. As for the shims, I went to Low's and found some brass rings used to mount door knob assembley, they look like large washers used in eletrical braker boxes to adjust conduit size. I used 4 of these as they were the perfict fit.Can you tell me the spinners in the drum have pointers on them, do they need to be oriented in a certan way?

Ken.

Dick and other members- I did a little follow up on post #18 and have some specs to share. I also plan on installing the early type bearings into a late model tub. (series #16) I did not find any automotive transmission or differential shims that were close in size to the door knob shims recommended in post 18. What the fellow above discovered was a set of door knob adapters acted as the needed thickness to take up the differences in old bearing design verses later designed housing bore depth. Lowe's has a set of door knob to deadbolt adpaters that do indead look like breaker box conduit shims. (that is how I found them and recognized them when I found them) They are item number 1165 in the door knob aisle. There 2 per pack and the fellow above used a total of 4 to complete his washer repair. The O/D is 2 & 3/16". The I/D is a hole 1 & 1/2" diameter. The thickness of the 2 adapters in the blister pack is 3/16" total. All 4 shims would = 3/8" total shim pack thickness for what it's worth. I say if it works why fight it. This will be my first approach when it is time to replace my tub bearings. This is especially important given that the late model bearings do not seem to exsist. As a side note Dick walked me through the "service mode" function and was curious of my cycle count when trouble started. This unit is 6 years old and has done 3735 cycles when the drive clutch needed a quick "rebuild". I am sure a tub seal and tranny o-ring are in the near future. Hopefully I can reseal the unit prior to any water damage to the tub bearings. Dave