Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
The ice maker in my Whirlpool ED2PHEXNT00 side-by-side stopped producing ice. I checked the obvious (arm stuck, ice jammed, etc.), and replaced the water filter just to be sure. I do get water from the door dispenser. I checked the old water inlet valve, and read approx. 200 ohms across the terminals of the valve for the water dispenser, but nothing across the terminals of the ice dispenser, so I assumed the valve was bad. I purchased a new one, installed it, and still no ice. I checked the new valve, and found the same readings (200 ohms across one terminal, nothing across the other). Is it possible that the new valve is defective, or should I check something else?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
You have been a member since:: 8/13/2008(UTC)
Posts: 3,097
|
Chrck to see if the fill tube for the icemaker is frozen. Let us know what you find.
Nat
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
No, the fill tube is not frozen.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 784
|
You can always apply 120 volts to the valve to verify it is bad either by force cycleing the icemaker or make up a test cord with a female spade connector on each lead hook it to the valve and plug it into the wall
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 784
|
theres also a field data sheet tucked behind the grill with detailed instructions
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Sorry for the delay in posting results. I found a troubleshooting guide for this particular model, and I performed the tests in the guide. I pulled the front panel off of the icemaker module, and checked for voltage across the terminals for the thermostat (T & H), and there was 120 VAC to the module. I then unplugged the fridge, and checked for resistance between the following terminals:
L&H (heater): 100 ohms (manual says should be 65-80)
L&M (motor): 3400 ohms (manual says 4000)
V&N (water valve): 200 ohms (manual says 300)
I then placed a jumper across terminals L & N to initiate the cycle. The icemaker did not cycle following this. Do I conclude that the icemaker module is defective?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 784
|
you jumper "T" & "H" to force cycle
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Sorry, I mis-spoke. I did jumper across T & H (not L & N), in attempt to force the icemaker to cycle.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
The ice maker module is bad but I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker instead of module to make the repair more dependable. - The part number for the ice maker is AP2984633 Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
